Working on my new 18th century shift reminds me that even the simplest of garments can be fascinating. From the Renaissance smock, through the 18th century shift, to the 19th century chemise, white linen (and, later, cotton) was cut into squares, rectangles, and triangles and then assembled into incredibly similar shapes. Even the full Renaissance Venetian camicia is built on the same principle as the comparatively spare 18th century shift, using all the available fabric to piece together a jigsaw of pattern pieces. According to Costume Close-Up, 18th century shifts almost always required from 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 yards of fabric, with size variation accomodated by purchasing narrower or wider linen. It wasn’t until the third quarter of the 19th century, when the chemise and drawers were streamlined into a one-piece garment called combinations, that any significant change occurred. That’s pretty impressive: at least 400 years (if not longer? medieval costume historians let me know!) of continuity.
18th c. Skirt Supports
I made some very practical 18th century skirt supports, primarily to go under my 1775 maja gown, but also under Nell Gwyn and other eras. I’ve added pictures and details on my 18th century costume gallery page.
New Books to Get Excited About!
Yay! Huge props to Sewingbird on LJ for pointing out that the long-awaited final Janet Arnold book (Patterns of Fashion: Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neck and Headwear, Etc., C. 1540-1665) is now available for pre-order on Amazon UK (it’s coming out in November). And Laracorsets on LJ found a book (Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques) that sounds very promising; also available for preorder on Amazon UK.
Corset Exhibit (San Francisco)
In addition to the Vivienne Westwood exhibit that starts in March, the de Young museum in San Francisco has just opened an exhibit on historical corsetry: Elegant Distortions. It runs through June. Yay!
Random Musings
Last weekend I went to the Oakland Museum’s White Elephant sale where I only bought a pearl necklace and a 40’s style olive green suit ($10)… only to get home and on a hunch, start poking around and realize that my 40’s style suit is actually a vintage Women’s Army Corps uniform (minus all its buttons). Yay! So now I’m wandering around ebay trying to find buttons and all the other insignia that it’s missing.
And I’m teaching two classes this weekend at GBACCG’s Costume Academy — one is an overview of 18th century costume, the other is on draping the 18th c. bodice. In doing so, I came across the sketch Nancy Bradfield includes in Costume in Detail of 1780s bum rolls/pads. That’s the only evidence I’ve seen for these, and since I love the 1780s, I thought I’d just go see if I could find the original she redrew that from… behold! I’ve ordered the catalog on ILL so I can see a better version. Anyone know of any other documentation for bum rolls in the late 1780s?







