Random Musings

Last weekend I went to the Oakland Museum’s White Elephant sale where I only bought a pearl necklace and a 40’s style olive green suit ($10)… only to get home and on a hunch, start poking around and realize that my 40’s style suit is actually a vintage Women’s Army Corps uniform (minus all its buttons). Yay! So now I’m wandering around ebay trying to find buttons and all the other insignia that it’s missing.

And I’m teaching two classes this weekend at GBACCG’s Costume Academy — one is an overview of 18th century costume, the other is on draping the 18th c. bodice. In doing so, I came across the sketch Nancy Bradfield includes in Costume in Detail of 1780s bum rolls/pads. That’s the only evidence I’ve seen for these, and since I love the 1780s, I thought I’d just go see if I could find the original she redrew that from… behold! I’ve ordered the catalog on ILL so I can see a better version. Anyone know of any other documentation for bum rolls in the late 1780s?

The “Ouch” Factor

One of the weird things about making and wearing historical costumes is getting into the “but doesn’t that hurt?” debate. As a modern feminist who wears what to some is a physical and visual marker of women’s oppression or women’s traditional roles, I’m conscious of trying to counterbalance those views. The point I usually try to make is that yes, wearing corsets and multi-layered clothing does feel less comfortable than wearing a bra, jeans, and t-shirt. But women of earlier eras had different priorities than we did, wore these garments from childhood, and in general simply wouldn’t have felt dressed or presentable for public viewing without those corsets and layers of clothing.

This review article from the Chronicle of Higher Education (which is a few years old) nicely summarizes some of my thoughts and the changes taking place in fashion/costume research. Two quotes that are really working for me: “‘Fashion’ can not logically be reified as a magic power that causes women to behave in ways contrary to their own best interests,” (Valerie Steele); and “You can’t possibly argue that for 1,000 years Chinese women were morons and Chinese men were sexual perverts. You have to ask, what stakes did women have?” (Dorothy Ko).

New York Couture Auction

Doyle New York will hold another couture, textiles and accessories auction on April 20. They’ll have an online version of the auction catalog up soon, so keep checking, but in the meantime the auction description includes some nice highlights. Check out that 1815 redingote! Anyone want to pull our lunch money?

You can search or browse their catalog archive for other amazing costume items — if you’re browsing, look for the catalogs with “couture” in the title.