Sewing at a Leisurely Pace

Although my mind is currently (as always) BUZZING with project ideas, and I’d much rather be sewing than doing anything else… I am forcing myself to stay on track with the idea of leisurely sewing.  I have no looming deadlines, other than things I WANT to make, so I am determined to sew for fun and not to get stressed out.  I’ll wear the new red & white polonaise to the Costume College gala, and I have options to wear for all the various events coming up.  So things will get done when they get done.

To that end, I’ve been noodling on the Brunswick.  Mostly, it’s been doing the real sewing where I previousy basted.  I did finally pleat the skirt, and last night I cut out and started sewing the lower sleeves.  But it’s all very noodly around here!  I need to decide on cuffs vs. elbow ruffles, and trimming patterns, but before I commit to that I can finish the lower sleeves, make the hood, do buttons & buttonholes, and make the petticoat.  I do need to bribe someone to set my second sleeve, and to help me mark the jacket hem, as I’m not convinced it’s even (and I think the back dips down too much – it’s these hips o’ doom!).

Brunswick workshop report

Last weekend I attended the 18th century Brunswick workshop organized by Burnley & Trowbridge, taught by Janea Whitacre, mantua maker extraordinaire from Colonial Williamsburg.

And it was FABULOUS!

Janea is hugely knowledgeable about 18th century gownmaking, and getting a chance to work with such a master was wonderful.  I’ve taken another workshop from her — the sacque workshop, where I made my first (the peach francaise).  It was fun to revisit this style in a new variation, and to be able to confirm and update my often self-taught knowledge about 18th century gownmaking.  Plus, she’s just really nice, and lets you ask her 10,000 questions!

Angela & Jim (owners of B&T) were there too, and they were super helpful and nice, bringing a bunch of their wares and allowing us to shop periodically throughout the weekend.  I’m really happy with them, as they have amazing customer service — I bought a pair of shoes from them that were too small, so I sent them back and they had the next size up made for me.  Well, those didn’t fit either, so Angela traced my foot at the workshop and they’re going to try for a third time to fit me!  If that’s not customer service, I don’t know what is.  (Let’s not even go INTO how helpful she was when I was buying fabric for my stays).

We had lots of options on styling the jacket — high or low neck, long or short waistcoat skirtings, depending on the era and style you liked.  I went for 1760s, with a high neck and long waistcoat skirts.

I worked with Cynthia on our jackets, so all credit for the fabulous drape goes to her.  We both had some fitting crises, esp. on Cynthia’s gown, as we hadn’t realized we needed to drape on the bias so her waistcoat front went wonky.  Luckily, I found a solution — we let the fabric go where it wanted to go, and pieced in a bit of the lining.

It was tons of fun to hang out with lots of friends and sew for 3 days, plus there is something magical about handsewing.  You have lots of time to chat in a way you don’t when the machines are out, plus it makes me waaay less stressed about getting things done on time (because it’s just not going to happen!).

So here’s where I’m at so far — everything is basted, and I’ve been working on doing the real sewing over the past few nights.  I need to hem the center back a few inches up (hello, I have hips of doom!), and I’m trying to figure out a trimming pattern that will be different from everyone else’s.  And, of course, make a hood, lower sleeves, and a petticoat!  I plan to do self-trim from the caramel taffeta, and then cream bows at the neck and elbows.

The best part is I was worried this would be a little bit of a frumpy style, but I’m really liking where it’s going.

(Oh and yes, we sewed in tiaras, because that’s how we roll…)

Silk taffeta ribbon?

I really want to post my recap of the Burnley & Trowbridge Brunswick workshop, which was amazing, but WordPress is being fussy and not posting galleries… and what’s the point of a costume post without pictures, I ask you?

So in the meantime, I will whine and ask y’all if you have any suggestions of where I can find silk taffeta ribbon (about 2″ wide-ish)?  I’ve been googling, and all over ebay and etsy, and all I’ve found has been the wrong color (I need ivory), or not silk, or not taffeta, or questionable whether it’s real heavyweight taffeta or just china-silk-esque, or something crazy like $50/yd.  I suppose I could get some yardage and do a teeny tiny hem, but… I just want silk taffeta ribbon!  Any ideas?