More Shopping!

I spent 4 days last week in New York, and I spent most of it at NYPL doing research on my robe à la polonaise/turque/circassienne research project — found some interesting sources!

But even better was that I went shopping for the first time ever in the NYC garment district!  Whoa, so many outstanding options — I tried not to break the bank, but it was tough.  Luckily I had Leia to show me around and she helped me bargain for some good deals.  I’m super excited about what I bought, and it’s making me excited about costuming again — YAY!

I was TRAUMATIZED to find out that Swatch, the Boston Terrier who works at Mood Fabrics, wasn’t in on Sunday.  SUCH SADNESS!!!!  I have two Boston Terriers myself, and I spend all of the shopping-at-Mood segments of Project Runway trying to spot Swatch (not enough Swatch in the recent All Stars season, btw).  I had a tiny consolation in that I got a Mood rewards card with a picture of Swatch on it, but that really wasn’t enough.  At all.

But on to the good news!  I found some FABULOUS fabric/trim for my Ultra Sekrit CoCo Gala dress — which is sekrit, so you don’t get to hear about it.  Luckily, I also found some other fabulous things which I can tell you about!

Silk/rayon duchesse satin from C&J

I went to C&J Fabrics as I knew they are one of the best sources for silk duchesse satin. Their’s is a blend with rayon, but that’s okay with me (rayon breathes and isn’t icky looking/feeling) — it makes it semi-affordable!  I had a hard time choosing, but finally bought this white and orchid duchesse satin to make a robe à la turque.  There’s a specific portrait that I’ve been eyeing for a while, but you’ll have to wait through some other projects to hear more about this!  I’m hoping I got enough — I was trying to be conservative because that stuff isn’t cheap — luckily I can always order more if I need to, because I grabbed some updated swatch cards (including silk faille – drool!).

Vintage rayon ribbon from Hyman Hendler

Next I went to Hyman Hendler, which I knew would have vintage ribbons. What I didn’t know was that it was where amazing vintage ribbons go to not-die — WHOA.  I literally could have bought one of everything.  It’s one of those stores that’s been around since ca. 1900 and is just stocked floor to ceiling with vintage ribbons.  Mostly rayon, some synthetics — didn’t see a lot of silk.  I splurged and bought 4 yards of vintage ribbon — the brown floral will be for a hat to go with the turque, the black & white I’m not sure, but how can you go wrong with black and white stripes?  You don’t want to know what this cost me — let’s say we’re in the $20-30/yd range here.

Gold trims from Tinsel Trading

Leia and I did a bunch of hole-in-the-wall store shopping, where we found my fabulous Sekrit Gala Project fabric.  Near the end of the day, we went over to Tinsel Trading.  I assumed everything there would be 1) fabulous 2) incredibly expensive 3) vintage.  I was right, but they also had some STUNNING modern trims that were a STEAL.  I’ve never put too much trim on my green Venetian because I’ve been waiting to find something I loved.  I bought 6 yards of the green and gold trim — I was about to buy 3 yards, but Leia pointed out it was only $1.50/yd, and was I crazy?  I also bought the narrow gold lace on the right for my upcoming 1550s Venetian (in blue, you’ve all convinced me!).

Tragically, I also bought 2 pieces of fabric at Mood — a sheer white on white stripe for an 18th c. Turkish outfit, and a pretty blue and white floral for a 1930s dress.  I say tragically, because somewhere between Tinsel Trading, Starbucks, and the Campbell Apartment bar, I left the bag somewhere.  I’ve tried calling all 3 places and none have found it, so apparently some random person has run off with my bag o’ cotton.  Luckily it was the bag filled with about $60 worth of fabric, not the one with about $300 worth of fabric, so I’m consoling myself with that.  Bastards.

Vintage gold lace for a Venetian stomacher

Not NYC-related, but shopping-related:  I’ve also meant to post a picture of this for forever, but I have been lazy.  I’ve been thinking about making one of those fancy stomachers that you sometimes see on Venetian Renaissance gowns.  Many of them look embroidered, but some look like lace laid on fabric (I’ll post some sources when I get organized).  I stalked Ebay for a while and finally found this gold metal thread lace, which I think will be perfect.  Not sure whether I’ll piece it so I can turn the motifs right side up.  Either way, I think this will work perfectly once I figure out what fabric to lay it on (right now it’s on my blue cutting mat).

New Venetian Renaissance – Fabric Shopping!

If you’ve seen my desire to costume, please let me know!  I don’t know if I pinned a note to its shirt, but hopefully it knows where it lives and could be sent to me COD?

I am trying to overcome my TOTAL lack of enthusiasm for costuming.  I did get on a fabric buying spree a few months ago, so that’s something!  I’ve been wanting to make a new dress for Bella Donna, and been wanting red for a while, so about a year or so ago I finally found some that would work:

I still love the fabric, but one of the things I’ve been trying to do as Bella Donna costume maven is to get us to broaden up our color palette.  We originally started with only shades of red (everything from gold through red through burgundy).  It worked great for a common look, but I think non-costumers don’t distinguish as much as costumers do, so we got a lot of, “Why are you all wearing the same dress?”  Hence, my last Venetian was in green.

Well, we got together to talk fabric a few months ago, and I realized that suddenly everyone was going to be back in red shades. I think part of it is what fabrics people got excited about, but also that it’s HARD to find good silk damasks! So I thought I’d better walk the walk and shelve my red (for now) and see what else I could find.

Cue months of fabric shopping, and I FINALLY came up with these, which are both in my hot little hands now:

Medium blue and bronze silk damask
Peach and gold silk damask, from Renaissance Fabrics

Okay, yes the peach is still in the red family, but at least it’s a lot lighter than red and it’s shiny!

So, now I have to figure out which one to use! For a while I was more excited about the peach just because it’s REALLY SHINY, but now I’m leaning more towards the blue — which is SUCH a coup, as finding blue silk damask that works for costuming?  Shockingly really hard!  And I don’t do baby blue, thank you very much.

I’m still planning to make this dress, including the weird gold shell/flower-y bits:

Veronese - Woman Holding Gloves, 1550-60 (via Realm of Venus)

I even found some butt-kickingly good gold lace that will work for the stomacher, which I’m REALLY excited about.

First up will be a new corset, basically a strapless version of my 1780s stays.  I even managed to cut it out and mark the boning channels on Sunday, which is a major accomplishment given my total lack of energy for costuming!  More on that soon.

Thinking About Sewing (does that count?)

So I’ve been being REALLY good this fall.  I work at a university, and generally early fall and early spring are totally slammed times for me at work.  So this fall, I’ve been consciously NOT sewing, since I’m working my tail off at work!  Why stress myself out with further deadlines?  This has been working fine… except that now I’m itching to sew!  And I can’t!

What I’m really ready for is a new Renaissance Venetian gown, since Bella Donna season is heating up.  Oh yes, that’s the other joy of fall — along with a busy work schedule, that’s when all of Bella Donna’s performances are!  So far we’ve done one day of the San Jose Renaissance Faire, two days at Ardenwood faire, and one day at Sebastopol faire; in two weeks, we’ll be at the San Francisco Italian Heritage Parade (super fun!), and then the following weekend is two days at Folsom Renaissance Faire.

I’ve been planning a new Venetian costume since I FINALLY managed to track down fabric that I’m excited about.  Unfortunately the color isn’t totally accurate in these photos, but look — dark red and copper silk damask!  Yay!

I’ve only changed my mind about ten times as to what I’m going to do with it.  I keep coming back to this 1550s Veronese portrait of a woman holding gloves.  I love the narrow gold trim, and even the crazy floral whosiwhatsits!

I spent a long time thinking about the so-called embroidered stomacher (which, in looking at a lot of examples of paintings with decorative stomachers, I’m increasingly starting to think were lace laid on another fabric. Except that this one does look embroidered!) and was trying to find some fabric that would work, but have decided to temporarily not worry about that.  I did find some nice vintage narrow gold trim that I’m going to use for the edging; and I’m considering making the floral appliques out of it by applying it to some silk organza or gold net – what do you think?

I’m thinking I will also add a neck and shoulder ruffs — I love the shoulder ruffs, since they’re so uniquely Venetian.  And, since they did falling (ie not standing) ruffs, it will work with my non-period Bella Donna hairstyle!

I'm thinking about something like this...
...but more of a falling ruff, like this.

The problem with all of this is I have literally one free day between now and the end of the Bella Donna faire season.  So, probably none of it will happen in time for this year!  I am considering whether I could get the ruffs made, and then wear them with another of my costumes.  Which brings me to — I actually have some REALLY fine linen.  Should I use that for the ruffs, or silk organza?  I can’t decide!  I love the sheerness of organza, but it seems like linen would be more period, but I’m worried the linen will be too opaque, but then it’s pretty fine linen, but then no linen is REALLY as fine as period linen…