Quatrieme Costume Report

So how could I forget, but I did! In Paris I went fabric shopping. First, I had bad guidebook directions so instead of walking out of the metro and turning right, where I would have run into all the fabric stores directly, I believed my guidebook and trekked waaaaaaay up the Montmartre hill only to find lots of tourists and a view of smoggy Paris. Once I’d made my way back down the hill I did find the fabric, finally. The only thing that I found that was new and exciting was, as I’d suspected, printed cottons in some really good approximations of 18th c. indiennes. I hemmed and hawed and finally went for a red and blue floral print on an ivory background — they did have something that was a dead ringer for this toile de jouy, but I decided it was too busy for my taste.

Now I’m in London and shall be off tomorrow to the V&A to see the Maud of Norway exhibit and then in the evening shall be meeting “Kate in England” (who posts on this site). Then Tuesday I have my appointment with the Museum of London, where I’m hoping to look at the construction details on 1780s zone gowns.

Troisieme Report du Costume

I’ve been wanting to post but no computer! In Paris I went to the Musee du Costume at the Palais Galliera to see their exhibit on 18th c. French and Dutch costume and OH MY, it was SO exciting. About 40 or more gowns from the mid-18th c. through the 1780s. The only bad part was no photos (bastards!) and the gowns were in glass cases, so in most cases you could only see one view. A lot of really interesting gowns, like one robe a l’anglais that had obviously been remade – the center back pieces, near the shoulder seams, had pleat markings. One really amazing 1780s redingote in green and ivory satin with amazing embroidery. They do have a fabulous catalog, but I don’t know if it’s available for sale by mail.

I also went to an exhibit at the Musee Carnvalet, which is the museum on the history of Paris, on the directoire and consulat periods, and they had about 5 gowns from the 1790s and 1800s (along with many fashion plates and drawings). Catalog available for that one too!

Now I am in the wilds of Italy (Umbria) with no costumes in sight, but having fun!

Dieuxieme Report du Costume

Bonjour from Paris where the keyboards are wacky! In Bruxelles I went to the Musee du Costume et de la Dentelle, which was, as reported, small and relatively unexciting. Mostly lace, of course – it was Brussels – but about 10 gowns. One really nice early 1900s gown in sea green silk taffeta with a pleated front pigeon bodice and pleated belt. Also some interesting 18th c. gowns, including one robe a l’anglaise that looked converted from a francaise – it had a round skirt, but open bodice with stomacher and fitted bodice back.

Much more exciting was to get together with Philippe, a Belgian costumer who is all alone in a wasteland of non-costumers. We had fun looking at corsets and other costumes he had made, and pawing through his extensive fabric stash, much of which he’d gotten in Paris.

Today we arrived in Paris, and went to the Marche aux Puces at Saint-Ouen to look (not buy!) antique corsets — but of course as soon as I got there I was very sad not to be able to buy the E450 late 19th c. corsets, and started trying to rationalize how I could afford one… luckily sense prevailed and I bought a 1923 fashion pouchoir instead to sate my costume lust.

First Costume Report

Today we went to the Museum van Loon in Amsterdam, which is a house museum dating from the 1600s. I was wandering around admiring the 18th c. Indian printed cotton bedroom, when I came across a gorgeous green velvet evening dress with appliques in leaf shapes, along with a portrait of the wearer in the dress. Weee! Photos have been duly taken.