Category: 19th century

I’m done! Wow! And it’s only Wednesday! Two full days before the event! This is a new trend!

I got all scientific tonight, doing everything in logical order — ie cutting all the ruffles/ruches, ironing all the pleats, sewing together all the trims, then attaching all the trims. Usually I’m way less streamlined, with lots of wandering the same route through the apartment over and over.

I knew I wanted to do something contrast-y with the sleeve trim, given that I was using the solid white fabric, but I wasn’t sure quite what. I got out a bunch of my fashion plate books and confirmed my suspicion that the trim needed to echo some other part of the dress — and since the bodice hem was echoing the overskirt, I thought I’d echo the underskirt with the sleeves.

So I ended up with a reverse version of the underskit trim — two rows of striped fabric in pleats (had fun reversing the direction of the bias stripe), topped with a solid white ruche on a red/white ruche underneath.

Finally, I sewed on the bodice hem ruffle and the ruche there (SO happy to discover I’d made extra ruches/ruffles when I was doing the skirt trim).

So now it’s quiz time! I put it all onto the dress form and sat down for my evaluation, and immediately started wondering about the bodice hem ruffle (the solid white bit). When I was looking at it in person, it looked like just a bit TOO much froof — but then when I took pictures with the ruffle showing, and then the ruffle tucked up under the bodice, I liked the with-ruffle better. It would be super easy to take off (I could just trim the ruffle underneath the ruche), but I’m just not sure!

What do you think?

Finally, Sadie would like to say this:

deer mommee yor dres is FASINATING kan i put my maus under it and then hyd under it and atack the othr kat wen he waks by and wee cud shred it with owr litl paws it wud be SO FUN luv sadee

Having a REALLY bad cold (literally two days on the couch with a fever) slowed down progress, but I wrestled with my mockup and finally got a sleeve that I liked. I realized that the problem was that the basic sleeve sloper I was using (drafted out of The Costume Technician’s Handbook) wasn’t fitted enough at ALL. Once I got a fitted sleeve, it was easy to add the flare below the elbow.

I also trimmed the neckline, and was thrilled to find that the extra top buttonhole is indeed covered by the trim, so I took off the matching top button and all is well! Yay!

Obviously I’m not going to be getting to the talma wrap, but I should be able to finish this for Sat. (GBACG day at Dickens Fair) with no problem. Just need to trim the bodice hem and the sleeves (still finalizing what I’m going to do there, but it’ll be a reverse color scheme — red/white trim on the solid white sleeves).