Costumes at the Château pt. 2: Marie Antoinette redingote!

Next up, my interpretation of the c. 1780 redingote worn by Marie Antoinette:

Sketch of Marie Antoinette in a redingote, c. 1780 / Kendra's interpretation

Not an exact copy for sure, and I still need to add the random waist bow (is it a sash, do you think?) and various lace bits, plus I’d like to make a better cap more along the lines of the sketch.  But I’m quite pleased with it!

The last bits to do were all the trimmy bits.  For the zig-zaggy white taffeta bits, I measured the length of the skirt sides and drew out a template.  The angle and spacing of the zig-zags really changes on the sketch.  I’m not sure if that’s a perspective issue, or if the original really had such wonky trim, but I knew I couldn’t handle too much wonkiness!  I did change the spacing a bit as it moves down towards the hem, but that’s it — all the different angles would have driven me crazy.  I then cut lengths of pinked taffeta, which I gathered and sewed to the zig-zag edge, and then basted it all down.  On top of that is some kind of textured/pleated black ribbon.  I experimented with a number of different pleating techniques, all of which just didn’t read as anything, and finally ended up doing a zig-zagged gathering stitch on the ribbon and gathering it up.  Luckily I spent 3 days helping my husband vend at WonderCon, so I was able to sit with this thing in my lap the whole time and hand sew!  Finally, there were all those fabric covered buttons, which I made on the plane, on the train, and at the château… I used wooden button blanks from Burnley & Trowbridge, cut out all the circles of white taffeta while at home, and then sewed on various transports.  Buttons are a great thing to make while travelling, as they’re small, quick, and easily portable!

I wanted to try something new for the underbodice effect, so knowing they did use stomachers with this style, that’s what I went with.  It worked fine, especially since the fitted waist means that the robe doesn’t hang too much open.  My initial plan was to straight-pin the robe down at the waist, but since the fabric is relatively heavy, this was annoying — every time I lifted the robe to get in to my pockets, I’d pull out the pin, which would get bent and wonky and I’d have to repin it.  So for later wearings, I just gave up on pinning that point, and although the robe didn’t fit in quite as neatly at the waist, it wasn’t really a problem.

It was the perfect dress for traipsing about the grounds of the château — I felt very over-the-top with my train dragging in the dirt!  I basted on a thick cotton facing as a train guard and I’m glad I did, as it got VERY dirty — it was satisfying to just rip it off when I got home!

Kendra

Kendra

Kendra

Kendra

I’m planning to wear this at Costume College — hopefully with Merja in her version?  I was thinking about wearing it for the ice cream social, although I think the official redingote meet-up will be another day… I’m worried it’s too heavy to wear all day at CoCo in the heat and that I’ll quickly hit the wall!

Costumes at the Château pt. 1: tambour embroidery!

So I’m home, and I have so much to post about!  Many costumes were worn and fabulous times were had.

I’m kicking the wrap-up off with a quick post about my embroidery projects.  I did finish the tambour embroidered fichu:

Kendra's tambour embroidered fichu

Kendra's tambour embroidered fichu

And I also made a tambour embroidered waistcoat for Francis, using yellow silk taffeta and various colors of silk embroidery thread.  I based the design on this gorgeous piece from LACMA, which was super helpful as I could download high resolution images, and since it had never been made up, it printed off as a perfect pattern.  I just had to resize it a few times and move a few things around to make it fit Francis’s pattern shape.  I also simplified things a bit, in that I didn’t do all the embroidery along the buttonholes — I don’t understand how/why they would cut into the embroidery to make the buttonholes.  That seemed madness to me!

I was sewing the actual waistcoat on the plane, in Paris, and in the château, but I got it done in time for a number of wearings!  And it looked beautiful with his new green and gold suit.
Tambour embroidered waistcoat

Tambour embroidered waistcoat

Tambour embroidered waistcoat

Francis

Robe à la Polonaise Article Published!

I am thrilled to report that the research that I have been working on with Brooke Welborn for years is finally available!  Dress, the journal of the Costume Society of America, has just come out with our article on the robe à la polonaise.

I have written up a summary of our findings as promised:

The 18th Century Robe à la Polonaise: Research Summary

 

If you’d like to read a full copy of the article, you can get it one of two ways (if you’re not already a subscriber to Dress):

1. Find a local library with a print copy of, or electronic access to, the journal Dress.  WorldCat provides a list of libraries who subscribe to the journal.

2. Alternately, you can purchase a PDF of the article from Ingenta Connect.

I’m super proud, and hope you find the information useful!

Robe a la Polonaise, 1780-1; Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Glasgow; 1932.51.I: http://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/ museums/collections-research/online-collections-navigator/

Plus des Shenanigans!

Okay, so finding the time to post is a lot harder than it looks.  Not only are we playing dress up right and left, there’s all that relaxing to get to!  So instead, here’s a few pics, with more content coming later:

Casual day!
My robe a la circassienne
Mrs Meringue and Mrs Marshmellow
A beautiful sunset

Shenanigans at the Chateau!

(Yes, I am shamelessly stealing that post title from the talented Cathy Hay!)

Aiee, we’re here!  In France!  In an ancient chateau, originally 16th century but restored in the 19th century, and very appropriately eighteenth-century themed inside!

Here is the lovely Chateau de Pys, in the southeast of France near Toulouse:

(C) Trystan L. Bass
(C) Thomas Dowrie. Currently I'm sleeping in the building to the right, next week I'll be moving into a bedroom in the chateau!
The view on a rainy late afternoon -- we actually have a view of the snow-covered peaks of the Pyrennees when it is clear, which I'll post once I've remembered to take a photo!

And we’re having a blast.  So far there have been sewing circles, cocktails, Eurovision final watching parties, yummy dinners…. and costumes!  Most of us are here for two weeks, so we’re spacing out the costume events to basically every other day, so nobody hits the wall.  It’s so lovely to BE in the place you’re going to be playing dress up — no hassle to get dressed and pop over — plus to then be able to put your pj’s on and have a late night, post-corset snack in the kitchen with everyone else!  I could SO get used to this…

Our first costume event was a picnic lunch on the terrace/outside.  It’s been drizzling on and  off, so we set up the lunch buffet-style on an outdoor table.  After food, we took TONS of photos, rambled about the grounds to see the nearby pond, woods, and lawns, played some ninepins, and lounged about on the steps.  As I keep repeating, This Does Not Suck.

Lisa & Francis
Sarah
Thomas & Trystan
Cathy & Lisa
C'est moi!

Tomorrow:  details on my redingote and wig!