Working on my new 18th century shift reminds me that even the simplest of garments can be fascinating. From the Renaissance smock, through the 18th century shift, to the 19th century chemise, white linen (and, later, cotton) was cut into squares, rectangles, and triangles and then assembled into incredibly similar shapes. Even the full Renaissance Venetian camicia is built on the same principle as the comparatively spare 18th century shift, using all the available fabric to piece together a jigsaw of pattern pieces. According to Costume Close-Up, 18th century shifts almost always required from 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 yards of fabric, with size variation accomodated by purchasing narrower or wider linen. It wasn’t until the third quarter of the 19th century, when the chemise and drawers were streamlined into a one-piece garment called combinations, that any significant change occurred. That’s pretty impressive: at least 400 years (if not longer? medieval costume historians let me know!) of continuity.
By Way of Worn Through
By way of Worn Through: check out these gorgeous historically-inspired fashion photos from Dazed & Confused magazine.
FIDM Museum Blog
The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum has started a blog showcasing costumes and accessories from their collections, as well as museum news & notes. My favorite aspect are the VERY high res photos that accompany their posts — check out this wedding dress as an example!
18th Century Costume Fans Take Note
You’ve probably seen this long ago, but just in case you missed it… Carolyn reproduced an entire middle class Englishwoman’s outfit from c. 1750-70 as an MA project, and it’s really quite amazing. Not only are the garments gorgeous, but they’re all handsewn from period sources and she did all of the work while in costume. Check out her site for details on the project and exhibition of her garments.
Worn Through: Fashion from an Academic Perspective
For those who are interested in the academic perspective on fashion, you should check out the Worn Through blog. The contributors are academics (including PhD students) and museum professionals, and they post both analytical articles on fashion as well as exhibition reviews, academic jobs, scholarly conferences, and more.







