Sewing at a Leisurely Pace

Although my mind is currently (as always) BUZZING with project ideas, and I’d much rather be sewing than doing anything else… I am forcing myself to stay on track with the idea of leisurely sewing.  I have no looming deadlines, other than things I WANT to make, so I am determined to sew for fun and not to get stressed out.  I’ll wear the new red & white polonaise to the Costume College gala, and I have options to wear for all the various events coming up.  So things will get done when they get done.

To that end, I’ve been noodling on the Brunswick.  Mostly, it’s been doing the real sewing where I previousy basted.  I did finally pleat the skirt, and last night I cut out and started sewing the lower sleeves.  But it’s all very noodly around here!  I need to decide on cuffs vs. elbow ruffles, and trimming patterns, but before I commit to that I can finish the lower sleeves, make the hood, do buttons & buttonholes, and make the petticoat.  I do need to bribe someone to set my second sleeve, and to help me mark the jacket hem, as I’m not convinced it’s even (and I think the back dips down too much – it’s these hips o’ doom!).

New Costume Movie Reviews

So I haven’t given up on Costume in Cinema — I just got distracted, and then suddenly had a HA-UGE list of movies to review, which was daunting.  So I kept procrastinating.  But I have finally gotten back in gear, so there is a raft of new movie reviews!

Phew!  You can see why that took me so long!

And, as always, the Upcoming Movies page is up to date.

England Trip Report #3: Costume Museum Fiesta!

So I have been to the UK many times — I studied abroad in Scotland in college, and I’ve probably spent a combined 3 months in London.  Which means that while I’ve done most of the London museums multiple times, I haven’t spent much time in England beyond London… which means that there are many interesting costume museums I’ve never visited!  Which is all to say that a large point of this trip was to hit some out of the way museums.

I did go to the V&A to meet up with Kate, Christina, and Leia.  Leia had never been, so we did go through the costume wing, but we spent more time in the new Medieval & Renaissance galleries and in the Textile Study Room.  There was lots that was interesting, but highlights for me included seeing this Florentine bust in person — it is great to see a 3D view of mid- to late-16th c. Italian fit. There’s a nice curve to the bustline, and the neckline comes up past the bust point… and check out the waistline wrinkles, consistent with a bodice that’s stiffened with heavy fabric but not boning!

VAbust

In the Textile Study Rooms, I bypassed the embroidery to look at the printed cottons, but luckily Kate mentioned this pair of mid-18th century jumps. One whole front was there — I think it had never been sewn together? And the teeny tiny embroidery stitches were absolutely to die for — maybe like 20 stitches to the inch?

VAjumps

Blaise Castle House Museum had a couple of nice rooms full of period costume (altho heads up, they had some signs up that they’re working on a [late?] 20th century exhibition – sigh). Probably the best moment was looking at this Charles Worth gown, when some very small (ages 5-6?) children ran in. Boy #1: “Is this what they wore in the Victorian era?” Boy #2: “Yes.” Boy #1: “NASTY.”  My husband and I ran around saying “nah-sty” for the rest of our trip.

BlaiseWorth

I happened to check out the Royal Albert Memorial Museum website, and saw they were doing an exhibit at the Lawrence House Museum in Launceston… otherwise I wouldn’t have known to stop in! This gown, from their regular display, is signed as being from the 1880s, but I say it looks about 1908ish.

Launceston

The special exhibit, “Curious Curves,” would have been very cool if I wanted to try on reproduction period undies (bustles, panniers, etc.), but turned out to only have one extant dress on display — this late Victorian beaded number.

LauncestonCurves

Killerton had a lovely exhibit called, “Elegance,” which included a number of really fabulous items.  These pair of leather 18th c. stays had me peering up close for a while…

KillertonStays

…and this 1770s sacque, with teeny tiny ikat pattern, was just gorgeous in person.

KillertonSack

I was super fortunate to have a study appointment with the curator of Killerton and the Royal Albert Memorial Museum. I was looking at late 18th century gowns, and was super excited to find one in the particular style I’m researching, plus to look at a lot of other pretties.  Unfortunately I can’t post pictures of any of them due to copyright.

I did find out that they recently photographed all of their collection, which will eventually (in a few years?) make its way onto the National Trust website.  I don’t know if this means that other National Trust collections are also being photographed?

Many small museums that I didn’t think of as “costume museums” had period costumes on display. The Sidmouth town museum had this lovely fan front taffeta 1850s dress.

Sidmouth

Chawton, Jane Austen’s home, was really really cool.  REALLY! The jacket is from Mrs. Austen’s riding habit, which was recut by younger family members for fancy dress.  And the quilt on the bed was made by Jane and Cassandra (and Mrs. Austen?) out of dress scraps.

Chawton

Finally, the Winchester City Museum had a display of Tudor costumes recreated by Herbert Norris (author of Tudor Costume and Fashion) in 1908 for a town festival. I thought some of you 16th century costumers might like to see what he came up with!

Norris

All in all, it was a lovely trip, and I’m glad I got to cross so many small but interesting museums off my list.  If you’re interested, you can see the full set of travel photos (including many from museums, but also just my general travel photos too) on Flickr.

Brunswick workshop report

Last weekend I attended the 18th century Brunswick workshop organized by Burnley & Trowbridge, taught by Janea Whitacre, mantua maker extraordinaire from Colonial Williamsburg.

And it was FABULOUS!

Janea is hugely knowledgeable about 18th century gownmaking, and getting a chance to work with such a master was wonderful.  I’ve taken another workshop from her — the sacque workshop, where I made my first (the peach francaise).  It was fun to revisit this style in a new variation, and to be able to confirm and update my often self-taught knowledge about 18th century gownmaking.  Plus, she’s just really nice, and lets you ask her 10,000 questions!

Angela & Jim (owners of B&T) were there too, and they were super helpful and nice, bringing a bunch of their wares and allowing us to shop periodically throughout the weekend.  I’m really happy with them, as they have amazing customer service — I bought a pair of shoes from them that were too small, so I sent them back and they had the next size up made for me.  Well, those didn’t fit either, so Angela traced my foot at the workshop and they’re going to try for a third time to fit me!  If that’s not customer service, I don’t know what is.  (Let’s not even go INTO how helpful she was when I was buying fabric for my stays).

We had lots of options on styling the jacket — high or low neck, long or short waistcoat skirtings, depending on the era and style you liked.  I went for 1760s, with a high neck and long waistcoat skirts.

I worked with Cynthia on our jackets, so all credit for the fabulous drape goes to her.  We both had some fitting crises, esp. on Cynthia’s gown, as we hadn’t realized we needed to drape on the bias so her waistcoat front went wonky.  Luckily, I found a solution — we let the fabric go where it wanted to go, and pieced in a bit of the lining.

It was tons of fun to hang out with lots of friends and sew for 3 days, plus there is something magical about handsewing.  You have lots of time to chat in a way you don’t when the machines are out, plus it makes me waaay less stressed about getting things done on time (because it’s just not going to happen!).

So here’s where I’m at so far — everything is basted, and I’ve been working on doing the real sewing over the past few nights.  I need to hem the center back a few inches up (hello, I have hips of doom!), and I’m trying to figure out a trimming pattern that will be different from everyone else’s.  And, of course, make a hood, lower sleeves, and a petticoat!  I plan to do self-trim from the caramel taffeta, and then cream bows at the neck and elbows.

The best part is I was worried this would be a little bit of a frumpy style, but I’m really liking where it’s going.

(Oh and yes, we sewed in tiaras, because that’s how we roll…)