Bella Donna 2011

Oh, how lagger-y I have become!  Oh, how many updates I have in my mind and not on my blog!  Maybe it’s time to retire this here thing… or get my butt in gear!

SO!  One thing I don’t tend to post a lot about is my 16th c. Venetian courtesan/singing group, Bella Donna.  Not because it’s not a hugely fun and time-consuming thing that I do, but because I feel like the report would be, “Rehearsed, rehearsed, rehearsed. Performed, had fun!” So in an effort to counteract that, I’m going to try to tell you about this season.

Way back in April, we performed at a one-day benefit for a middle school. Small (comparatively) crowds, little shade, and paved in light-colored cement so that our eyes were BURNING from the sun. Oh, the squinty pictures! Nonetheless, we had fun, debuting new music… A while back, the Queen told us that the Earl of Leicester would cover any of our expenses while we’re in London, so we’ve had a long running joke that he’s supposed to buy us all ponies, which of course he always fails to do. So we had fun telling him that we had a song about our ponies for him, and then singing “Gush Forth My Tears.”

Ardenwood Renaissance Faire was fun minus the humidity, which put a damper on things… literally, when poor Linda felt faint and was down for the count, and I got carsick on the drive home on Sat. No fun throwing up on the side of the freeway in a corset, I tell you! Nonetheless, it was good in that we had to cover Linda’s parts in our show and found that we actually COULD!

Ending the dance Spagnoleta in our stage show (C) Francisco Mijango

Much Ado About Sebastopol was in its second year and man, did they knock it out of the park. Those people who long for a more historically accurate Elizabethan faire should seriously check this out. While the location isn’t anything to get excited about (city park – but hey, there are TREES), the faire organizers are going back to the original vision of actual living history.  Most of the performers are playing English lower and middling classes, and doing craft demonstrations and other actual bits of living history. Whoa! Sadly, our director/harpist Shawna had to miss that show, and so we weren’t as exciting and sparkly as when we’re with her (no musical accompaniment, no dancing).

We’ve done the San Francisco Italian Heritage Parade for a number of years now, twice winning first prize for “Novelty Act.” Last year, we were smoked by a group of real Italians from Genoa who had (cheesy costumes and) drums and swords and lots of people. So this year, we invited our friends from the SCA and the German Landsknecht Guild of St. Max to join us, and made a HUGE showing. The parade is always a blast — everyone’s in a good mood, random people give you wine and take your picture, and it’s Fleet Week so the Blue Angels are flying overhead. This year, we won honorable mention for “Novelty Act” and had a blast doing it! Here’s a ridiculous video of us all singing along to “Don’t Stop Believin'” while we’re waiting for the parade to start…

Augmented Bella Donna at the SF Italian Heritage Parade

Finally, it was time for our favorite faire: the Folsom Renaissance Faire. It’s the last faire of the season, so everyone’s in a good mood; the site is pretty, with lots of trees; and it’s a fabulous girl weekend. What’s not to love?

I’ve been dying to make a new Venetian dress but had absolutely no time to do so, so contented myself by making a new girdle and parasol. We all use those Chinese paper parasols, given that we need to keep the sun off somehow and Italian women weren’t into hats. I want us to step up the game and go with something more period-accurate, so to that end I recovered a vintage 1950s umbrella (with a tag inside the cover that proudly proclaimed it was “100% acetate”!) with some gold silk taffeta left over from my 18th c. Brunswick. I thought I’d have it ready to go for the parade, but the cover ended up too small — wah! So I had to unpick all the seams and let them out. I’d bought a ton of this bullion fringe, thinking I’d cover the entire edge, but once I let the parasol out I didn’t have enough, so I cut it into pieces and made tassels.

New parasol! (C) Kim Yasuda

The other exciting thing, costume-wise, was Jenn made Shawna a new costume. Shawna is our director and works her butt off for our group, researching music and teaching it to all of us, plus leading the acting brigade… but she doesn’t sew. A bunch of us got together to make her last costume, but because we all took various pieces of it, it didn’t come together as well as it should have (and the fabric she chose was affordable but not fabulous). So Jenn had had enough of it, and took her in hand to make her a GORGEOUS new red silk damask dress plus a new corset that gave her a beautiful shape. Jenn is an amazing costumer who does precision work, and the ensemble turned out stunning. Isn’t Shawna a total goddess?

Shawna's new dress

Folsom was a blast, like always, but perhaps even more fun because this time we continued with the “augmented Bella Donna” theme, having some guest/non-stage show performers — the fabulous Karen, Sarah, Trystan, and Francis. We set up a space for the first time ever, and while it was small, it was perfectly sized for us (you can see a bit in the background of Shawna’s picture). Francis and Sarah have a pavilion and a bunch of gear they use for the SCA, so we got to set up a space that was 1) our’s and 2) appropriately pretty and non-peasant-y. We had tons of fun playing with our larger group; we made the local newspaper (that picture was taken during a tipsy hour where we hooted and hollered at literally everyone who walked past our set-up; we were having so much fun, we couldn’t even stop to pose for the photographer); plus we debuted our newest courtesan, Chlamydia, which was gut-bustingly hilarious.. Trystan took a bunch of pictures, which you can see on Flickr.

Our last event of the year was singing at the PEERS Bal de Vampyre, which is probably the most fun costume ball of the season. It’s about 5 blocks from my house (ok, bonus for me), held in a GORGEOUS masonic hall with 3 floors — a huge ballroom, a social room, and a basement lounge with goth DJs. Oh, and there are 2 bars! Sadly, I had the flu the week before and was still feeling woozy and out of it, so I didn’t have as much fun as I usually did. Still, it was fun to sing and our space was set up well this year so we were able to attract a good audience. The best part was we rewrote some of our English songs to make them vampire-y, and led the audience in a sing-a-long to “Greensleeves” that was about a spurned vampire victim/lover/slave and went, “Red blood was all your joy / Red blood was your delight / Red blood was your heart so cold / And naught but my flowing red blood.”

And yes, I did make my champagne costume, and I felt it turned out totally meh… but I Brownie-promise a full post about that!

Bella Donna at the Vampire Ball (C) David Bedno

Fabulously Sweet yet Creepy Costume-Related Illustrations

I have so much to post about, but have been busy busy!  So I’ll try to rectify this starting this week, and will start small…

About a month ago I was at the Alternative Press Expo and ran across the work of Ray Caesar — specifically the illustration below.  I LOVED it, especially when I did a double take a realized how creepy it was.  Okay, I could ask for a more 18th c. style corset to go with the hair, but I’ll take what I can get.

"Coming Undone" by Ray Caesar

Looking him up, I found his website and a current gallery show he has in Culver City, CA, and discovered that beautiful, sweet, yet creepy illustrations appear to be his thing, and that many incorporate historical costumes/settings.

So!  Just a random, “Hey! Cool!”

Apparently Fancy Dress Is My Theme

First it was the 18th c. Maja costume, now I’ve been struck by the Victorian fancy dress bug!  A year or two ago, people were passing around the link to this fabulous 1880s book full of fancy dress (ie what historical people wore when they were “in costume”) costume ideas.  And then this summer, Jen and Loren made SUPER fabulously cute fancy dress costumes (telegraph and harlequin) for the CoCo gala.

Suddenly, my SUPER busy season (ie mostly Bella Donna/faire performances) is over (which I promise to post about very soon), the PEERS Vampire Ball is coming up in a few weeks, and I’ve got the time and urge to sew!  However, I kept looking over my planned costumes list and either nothing grabbed me, or it was something that I didn’t want to bang out in a few weeks.  So I hemmed, and I hawed, and suddenly I thought of that fancy dress book, and Jen and Loren’s super cute costumes, and realized aha!  I would make a fancy dress costume for the Vampire Ball, and hey, then I’ll have something fun to wear when I visit Dickens (mid-Victorian being a total snoozefest to me these days).

So I read all through the fancy dress book, and looked at a ton of fashion plates, and settled on the idea that had caught my eye way back when I first skimmed through the book — champagne!  There are a lot of fabulous fancy dress concepts out there, but I wanted something that modern people would understand (for example, I kept loving all the “folly” illustrations, but would people know what that was? and there are tons of historical characters, but I worry that Victorian ideas of historical costume would just read as badly designed/research costumes).  Okay, no idea if people will get champagne either, but at least they know what it is I’m talking about!

So then I started looking through a gazillion fashion plates and here’s what I settled on (commentary in captions will be missing if you’re reading this on LJ, you may want to link to the post on my site if you care):

Suggestions for "champagne" costume from the fancy dress book
My bad PhotoShop mockup -- REALLY hard to get the colors to translate correctly!
The 1886 La Mode Illustree evening gown that I'm basing the design on
Far right and left, examples of fancy dress from 1885 -- most fancy dress skirts are shorter length and fuller, so I'm be using these as an idea for skirt silhouette

I’m planning to use a lot of stash materials for this project.  I have 2 yards of bottle green silk shantung, so that will be the front/side base of the skirt.  Then I have a ton of white cotton velvet, and I spent the weekend dyeing it — first 4 packets of Dylon dark green dye got it to a medium green, then I overdyed it with black for a darker green but ended up w/ a darker blue (wth?), then overdyed it again with RIT dark green and finally got the forest-y shade I wanted.  I bought 2 yeards of a pink-ish gold silk shantung from Mood Fabrics — I’m hoping this color will work on me, since most yellow-y golds wouldn’t:

Now, the final problem has been trim!  I LOVE the balls in the original fashion plate, but I’m having a horrible time finding something to match.  I’m picturing just strings of large gold balls, but they are shockingly hard to find!  Here’s my options:

Some kind of beaded fringe, although I can't seem to find anything where the beads are big enough! Also, can't seem to find round beads in the right color! And, no idea what the size is on this one.
Another beaded fringe -- this one is pretty small, 1" total
I could string pearls or beads, but it's amazingly hard to find them big enough! These pearls are 16mm, which is just about .5", which seems still really small to me.

And, I just recently had the idea to look for gold ball buttons and see if I could string those… what do you think?  Again, I’d like it to read as champagne bubbles!

Exhibitions & Videos

Kent State University Museum has an exhibition on Civil War women’s fashions (On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life — September 30, 2011 – August 26, 2012), and the exhibition webpage has a nice HD video with an interview with the curator plus a lot of shots (including some nice close-ups!) of the various pieces.

Montpelier is exhibiting costumes from the recent PBS “American Experience” production on Dolley Madison (Dolley Madison’s Life through Fashion: Dressing the Part — June 15, 2011 — March 31, 2012), and the exhibition webpage has another nice HD video interviewing the costume designer, with lots of shots of the various costumes and fittings with the lead actress.

Some Upcoming Books

Some interesting sounding books out now, or coming soon!

Russian Elegance: Country & City Fashion from the 15th to the Early 20th Century features examples of Russian dress from the State Historical Museum, from the 15th-20th centuries, looking at both Russian peasant dress and Western styles worn in cities.

Classic Beauty: The History of Makeup is written by the founder of Besame Cosmetics, so you know she knows what she’s talking about! Covers the 1920s-present, with over 430 photos, timelines, and color palettes.

Facing Beauty: Painted Women and Cosmetic Art is written by renowned costume historian Aileen Ribeiro so again, you know it’s going to be good. According to its description, it “discusses the shifting perceptions of female beauty, concentrating on the period from about 1540 to 1940” with lots of illustrations.

Slightly further afield… ie of interest to niche markets:

Spanish Fashion in Early Modern Europe: The Prevelance and Prestige of Spanish Attire in the Courts of the 16th and 17th Centuries could be interesting to those who geek out on this era. It looks like it’s going to be more analytical than illustrative.

And in a similar vein, Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America (Gender and American Culture) “explores how and why fashion–both as a concept and as the changing style of personal adornment–linked gender relations, social order, commerce, and political authority during a time when traditional hierarchies were in flux” — again, analytical rather than illustrative.

Happy shopping!