I spent last night draping the bodice

Can I just say that I LOVE LOVE LOVE draping? Not just because you can do with your hands what you spent years trying to do yanking commercial patterns into shape or trying to wrap your brain around the geometry of pattern drafting. But also because it’s just such a tactile way to make what you see in your mind happen in reality… Okay, I’m done waxing poetic.

I really like where I’m going in the front, but not too sure about the back. The evening bodice is going to have inside box pleats, with the inside of the pleat in solid white (like in the Truly Victorian 1870 evening bodice pattern) — but I think it would be boring to do the exact same thing on the day bodice as well. I was trying to go for the ruffly full look you see in a lot of early bustle era bodices, but it’s still pretty flat. Off to my book collection for inspiration!

Here’s the intial drape:

bodice_drape1 bodice_drape2 bodice_drape3

And the first mockup:

bodice_mockup1 bodice_mockup2 bodice_mockup3

COMMENTARY

shoe sizing

(I’m not… talking… about… the… election… GAH!) Ahem. In my quest for retail therapy, I have a bee in my bonnet about getting some antique Victorian/Edwardian boots. But here’s the problem I always have with antique/vintage shoe shopping! I’m tall. I have big feet. I wear an 11, which when I look at standard shoe sizing charts seems to indicate that shoes my size should measure somewhere around 10.5″. But whenever I look at shoes on ebay etc., the sellers will say that they’re somewhere around 10-11″ long, but that they’re a size 6 or 7. What gives? Obviously some room is lost when you’ve got a pointed toe, but how the heck am I ever supposed to be able to tell whether a shoe will fit me? And yes, I’ve tried measuring shoes in my closet (even those with pointy toes are usually around 11-11.5″ long)… but I’m still lost.

COMMENTARY

eep! costume movie alert!

The Young Visiters — comic novel written by a 9 year old and set in the 1890s — is showing this week on BBC America. Set your VCRs and Tivo’s!

The BBC America website has an online quiz where you can win a copy of the book. The quiz is on the Victorian era, and I am very amused by question #4:

4) In 1881 two women created the Rational Dress Society, aimed at encouraging more practical clothing for women. The name of one of the founders became synonymous with a new type of women’s garment. What was her name?

a. Amelia Bloomer

b. Josephine Knickerbocker

c. Daphne Crinoline

d. Adrienne Panier

COMMENTARY

exhibits & catalogs

Just a few bits and pieces:

The Mark Twain House (Hatford, CT) currently has an exhibit called, “Modesty Died When Clothes Were Born: Costume in the Life and Literature of Mark Twain.” There’s some nice info on their website, plus a catalog of the exhibit is available for $18.95 from the museum website

The Huntsville Museum of Art (Hunstville, AL) will be opening an exhibit called, “Fashion in Film: Period Costumes for the Screen” on 11/7. Check out their exhibit webpage for images of costumes from Out of Africa, Dangerious Liaisons, Onegin, Pride and Prejudice, Jefferson in Paris, The Europeans, Scarlett, Shining Through and The Shooting Party (make sure you click on “Click for more previews”).

Opening tomorrow (11/2): “High Style and Hoopskirts: The 1850s” at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.

Finally, right here in San Francisco — “Glamour: Fashion, Industrial Design, and Architecture” at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Apparently the exhibit covers 1945-present — I’ll report more once I’ve seen it! You can purchase the catalog for $45 from their online museum store.

Even though I was sidetracked by Halloween

I’ve been busy assembling things for this project.

The first big one was finding enough white silk taffeta for all the trimming. I’d finally settled on ordering from Silk Connection because they had the best prices, but of course stupidly didn’t order a swatch first, and the silk came back noticeably more of a natural white than a bright white (anybody want to buy 5 yards of natural white silk taffeta?). So I hauled myself down to Thai Silks and went through their remnant bins, which aside from the hauling factor worked out well because I got 6 yards for $30.

So now that I had the fabric, it was time to start on the trimming. A few nights ago I started marking and cutting out the strips of fabric to make the three pleated rows around the underskirt. I have a nice pair of pinking shears that I inherited from my mother but which probably haven’t been sharpened since 1975 — I’ve never made the investment in another pair because I kept thinking I could get these sharpened, which I finally did at Costume College — but I don’t know if they’re just dead or if the sharpener sucked, because I was able to cut out about one row of fabric before the teeth just started chewing the fabric.

So! New pinking shears needed. I’ve admired those pinking/scalloping blades for rotary cutters for a while, so I went to crappy Joann’s today to pick some up. But noooo, Joann’s only carries replacement blades for Fisk rotary cutters, not Olfa which is what I have. So now I need to find a Michael’s and hope that they have what I need.

So since I was stymied on the trimming front, I sat down tonight to watch scary Halloween movies and sewed hooks and eyes on the two skirts (which as we know, should really take about 5 minutes but in reality takes about 5 hours).

Next I decided to finish the overskirt by marking the poufs (finally picked up some white twill tape — I just don’t think black would cut it). I basically followed the pattern’s markings, except that I added a third row of attachment points as I don’t like the look of poufs at the top and then a bunch of straight fabric.

The skirts aren’t fitting my dressform at the waist because I left my Victorian corset at work after our Halloween party — but you get the picture.

overskirt_poufs1 overskirt_poufs2

Speaking of dress forms — my Uniquely You is adjustable in height by a little plastic ring that fits around the pole of the stand. The ring has screws, which means you move the ring where you want it, tighten the screws, and then the ring holds up the form. But my ring cracked and broke (hello crappy plastic!). Now I remember someone telling me that the same thing happened to them, and they contacted the manufacturers who sent them a snappy replacement METAL ring — but I can’t find the contact info for the manufacturers! I did some web searching but came up with zip. Anyone know who makes Uniquely You’s and how to contact them?