Upcoming SF Bay Area Event: Bulgari Jewelry, Jan. 11

San Francisco Bay Area people, and those into shiny things, should consider joining the Costume Society of America Western Region’s event:

The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950–1990 
de Young Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco
Saturday January 11, 2014

Sautoir, 1969. Platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Chain, Pendant/Brooch. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection. copywright Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Here’s the event description:

This exhibition The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990 at the de Young Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco will highlight jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and includes many pieces from the personal collection of Elizabeth Taylor and other celebrities. Amanda Triossi, a jewelry historian, author, consultant to luxury goods companies, and curator of the Bulgari Heritage Collection, curated the exhibit.

Our private guide will enrich our gallery tour as we hear about the company and the jewelry. Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition includes innovative uses of sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal a fascinating intersection of celebrity, design, and fine craftsmanship.

At 1:00pm in the Koret Auditorium there will be a free public lecture on the Bulgari exhibit.

The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990 continues the Fine Arts Museums’ strong track record of exhibitions highlighting the work of decisive figures and movements in the world of fashion and design including: Cartier in America, Balenciaga and Spain, Yves Saint Laurent and The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, among others.

Adjacent to the Bulgari Exhibit, in the Textile Arts Education Gallery, will be an exhibit entitled, Lace: A Labor of Luxury. CSA Member and associate at the de Young Textile Arts Department, Kristen Stewart, curated this exhibit and will guide us through it. Portraits of fashionable lace-wearing men and women from the Achenbach collection of prints will be exhibited alongside fine examples of lace from the sixteenth through the nineteenth centuries to support a chronological narrative of successive lace capitals and coups. The Education Gallery also displays textile study pieces for close examination.

If you’re interested in attending, you need to register by January 3rd!

I’ll be there — will you?

Stockholm!

I just got back from a week in beautiful, cold, dark Stockholm!  I was there doing research at the Nordiska Museet (Nordic Museum), looking at an 18th c. robe a la turque and some other garments related to my Big 18th-Century-Turkish-Influence project.  It was something of a whirlwind trip, given the flying time from San Francisco to Stockholm (THREE — count ’em — flights to get home, meaning about 24 hours of travel time), but it was lots of fun!

Stockholm is very pretty.  Lots of it is very Victorian looking, but mixed in (especially in the older parts) are beautiful, warm colored buildings:

Gamla Stan

This was even prettier on the second day we were there, when it snowed!

Kungsträdgården

I was there with my husband, and we did a ton — museums, architecture, shopping for design-y items (Michael’s an illustrator, so he was all “Swedish design! Yay!”).

Kendra & Michael

I got to meet Elisa of Isis’ Wardrobe and Madame Isis’ Toilette.  She took me to Livrustkammaren, where they have the HUGE and fabulous royal dress collection.  I got to see TWO (count ’em!) Swedish 18th century court dresses, and Elisa was able to tell me lots of interesting things about the various pieces and the royals who wore them:

Coronation dress of Queen Lovisa Ulrika, 1751 | Livrustkammaren: http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/
Wedding dress of Queen Sofia Magdalena, 1766 | Livrustkammaren: http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/

The Nordiska Museet is STUNNING:

Nordiska Museet

And they had a number of really fascinating exhibits, my favorite being the jewelry and costume exhibits (of course!):

Modemakt/Power of Fashion

Modemakt/Power of Fashion

Modemakt/Power of Fashion

Modemakt/Power of Fashion

Equipages

16th c. pendant

And best of all, I got to study a number of interesting 18th century costume pieces! The curators and conservators were really nice and great to work with, and they had some really interesting items in their collection.

You can see all of my pictures, including many more of the costume and jewelry exhibits, in this Flickr set.

Speaking of Costume Movies…

Have you seen the trailers for three exciting costume movies that are coming soon?

The Invisible Woman trailer — Charles Dickens’s (Ralph Fiennes) relationship with his mistress (Felicity Jones).  Altho I find mid-Victorian a total snooze, the costumes look very accurate.  Costumes designed by Michael O’Connor.  Coming to the UK in February 2014, US will probably be sometime after that.

Maleficent teaser trailer (only a teaser, but it looks great!) — the story of Sleeping Beauty told from the evil fairy’s perspective, starring Angelina Jolie. Costumes by Anna B. Sheppard.  Will be released in May 2014.

Belle trailer — the one I’m most excited about!  Based on a true story, about a mixed race girl who grows up with an aristocratic English family in the 18th c.  Costumes by Anushia Nieradzik.  Also coming in May 2014.

Wondering what other costume movies are in production/coming soon?  Check out my Upcoming Movies page.

 

TV Review: Bletchley Circle

Starring Anna Maxwell Martin and Rachael Stirling.  Costumes designed by Anna Robbins.

Buy this and other costume films from Amazon and support this site

I’m so behind on costume TV/movie reviews, that I’m going to filter it down to just those that I really have something to say about!

This ITV miniseries was really great, from the script/story to the acting to the costume design.  Anna Maxwell Martin (who you may know from Becoming Jane or Bleak House) is a stunningly talented actress — one of those you should pay to watch read the phone book.  She stars with three others (including Rachael Stirling from Tipping the Velvet) as four women who worked as codebreakers at Bletchley Park (the center of the British codebreaking effort) during World War II.  Now the war is past, and they are all trying (and frequently failing) to settle into a “normal” life — harder to do, because they aren’t allowed to talk about their war work.  Martin plays Susan, who is following a series of murders being publicized in the newspapers, and who recognizes a pattern that the police aren’t seeming to catch.  She gathers her former co-workers and they set about trying to solve the murders, once their attempts to notify authorities are disregarded.

The story is a great mystery that will have you in suspense the whole time, and that’s layered with the interesting backstories of the war codebreaking, plus the difficulties the very different characters face as they try to navigate life, plus the general sexism of an era in which the idea of women being brilliant was laughable.

The costumes are VERY well done, showing a nice range of early 1950s wear, with differences among the characters showing through their clothes.  No fall-over-yourself ballgowns or anything, but fabulous daily wear done RIGHT.

It was recently announced that it was renewed for a second season, which I’m very much looking forward to!

My review:  5 (out of 5)

If you like this era, you might want to check out my other 20th century costume movie reviews. For more 1940s-50s done right, I recommend Bride Flight (2008), Enigma (2001), Glorious 39 (2009), and Hope & Glory (1987).