Costume in Cinema: Victorian

Costume designer: Charlotte Walter

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Another Sarah Waters novel adaptation, this one is fine but not inspired. Margaret Prior visits a women’s prison as a charitable endeavor in 1870s England, and gets emotionally involved with one the prisoners, with some trips into 19th century Spiritualism-land. The costumes are nice although very restrained (lots of somber colors as befits the mood).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Gabriella Pescucci

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An absolutely gorgeous film with great acting and beautiful costumes, but… I’m a huge Edith Wharton fan, but there’s something about Daniel Day-Lewis in this film that never quite works for me.  Still, that’s my only complaint — see it for the beautiful bustle gowns and a wonderful examinations of the social mores, and emotions behind them, of 1870s New York society.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Paul Brown

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I’m not a huge A.S. Byatt fan, but you don’t need to be to appreciate this dark and rather twisted tale, set in the 1850s, of a scientific explorer who returns to England to stay with his patron and becomes enmeshed in the world of the Family (with a capital F) as well as the servants.  Patsy Kensit and Kristin Scott Thomas are both amazing in their roles.  The costume designer did an great job of subtly exaggerating the costumes so as to highlight their “insect”-y aspects.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan

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Chow Yun-Fat is fabulous, Jodie Foster is lackluster in this retelling of the “true” story behind the King and I.  The 1860s costumes are quite well done.  Worth one watch but that’s it.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Maurizio Millenotti

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I veer back and forth on whether or not I like the plot and acting in this film — sometimes it doesn’t grab me at all, and sometimes it’s appropriately tragic and bleak.  BUT it is one of the absolutely most gorgeously costumed movies I’ve ever seen, plus Sophie Marceau is beautiful and Sean Bean is hunky.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Rosalind Ebbutt

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As a film, I liked this one much better than the Sophie Marceau (1997) version.  Helen McCrory is a stronger actress than Marceau, and she does a good job at portraying Anna’s torment without making her whiny. Unfortunately Kevin McKidd isn’t as hoty as Sean Bean, but his performance was quite good. While the costumes were nice, they weren’t as outstanding as the 1997 version. Part of that may be that the film was shot in a lot of closeups, which meant it was always hard to get a good look at the costumes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Deirdre Clancy

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This is one of those movies that shows up in your local video store and you’re thinking, “Hmmm — I’ve never heard of it, which doesn’t bode well, but then it could be interesting and it certainly has good actors in it…”  Well, your first hunch was right.  Terrible straight to video movie with cheesy acting and dumb plot, plus it looks like the costume designer was given about a $5 budget.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan & John Bright

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Merchant-Ivory — what more need I say?  An adaptation of the Henry James novel, the only off note for me is Christopher Reeves, who just seems so… so… Christopher Reeves!  I don’t know, he doesn’t work for me.  Vanessa Redgrave is amazing and I really liked how the filmmakers heightened certain aspects of James’s novel that he probably couldn’t go into at the time he was writing.  Beautiful 1870s costuming, showing a nice restrained middle class sensibility.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Eiko Ishioka

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Francis Ford Coppola’s take on the classic vampire tale, with Winona Ryder being not-too-painful as Mina, Keanu Reeves being more-painful-than-Winona as her beau, Gary Oldman as the title character and the fabulous Sadie Frost as Lucy.  Costumed by Eiko, Coppola originally wanted the costumes to be the only set decoration and it shows — lavishly gorgeous gowns, especially on Lucy/Frost.  The only weird note costume-wise is that the titles tell us the film is set in the 1890s, but it’s very obviously costumed from the 1880s.  Very gothic, very dark.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Rosalind Ebbutt

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Up there with Anna Karenina and Age of Innocence as one of the top three (costume wise) bustle films, but wins out because A) the story is better and B) it’s a miniseries so it’s longer.  This is my favorite Edith Wharton novel, and tells the tale of four Americans who, being “new money,” try their hand at entering British society.  The script stays very close to the original novel, while adding in some plot details that Wharton quite possibly may have had added had she been able to write about them during the period.  Carla Gugino is fabulous as Nan, Mira Sorvino is in one of her best roles as Conchita, and Alison Elliott is wonderful as Nan’s sister Virginia — plus Greg Wise plays one of Nan’s love interests. You Must See This.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Dominique Borg

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Isabelle Adjani in one of her many tragic roles, as the sculptress who was involved with Rodin and subsequently went just a wee bit insane.  Outstanding acting by Adjani and Gerard Depardieu as Rodin, with some interesting 1880s gowns.  In French.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Susannah Buxton

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This BBC miniseries is my absolute favorite of all of the adaptations of Jane Eyre, with Samantha Morton as Jane and Ciarian Hinds as Mr. Rochester.  It’s gothic, it’s dark, it’s romantic.  The costuming is very well done, with some interesting 1830s gowns on Jane’s family during the childhood sequences, out-of-date late 1830s dresses on the adult Jane (as would befit a poor governess who is probably wearing donated clothes), and some fabulous early 1840s clothing on Blanche Ingram and company.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Joanne Hansen

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I really like this adaptation of Hardy’s The Mayor of Casterbridge, which resets the tale in the 1860s American West.  All of the cast are stellar, from Sarah Polley to Wes Bentley, Milla Jovovich, and Peter Mullan.  The costumes are mostly pioneer-sensible except for Lucia/Jovovich and the other prostitutes.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Carlo Poggioli & Ann Roth

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A mixed bag but definitely worth watching — I haven’t read the book, which I’ve heard is lightyears better.  Set in the American Civil War with Nicole Kidman, Jude Law, and Renee Zellweger.  The costumes are pretty good — lots of gauzy cotton prints on Kidman although her sleeves are awfully narrow.  What really drove me crazy was the hair — both Kidman and Zellweger are supposed to be getting down in the muck, but it’s hardly believable when they have wispy hair extensions artfully waving around.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume design: Gabriella Pescucci

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This movie is another mixed bag:  Elisabeth Shue is riveting and beautiful as Jenny, Kelly MacDonald is great as Hortense, and Jessica Lange really nails the part of Bette — but there’s something about it that just never really clicks.  I mostly like it because it’s one of a very few films set in the 1840s, and it really gets the bell shaped skirts right.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan

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An amazing cast (Judi Dench, Imelda Staunton, Francesca Annis, and many more) round out this mixture of various Elizabeth Gaskell stories, all set in one rural English village in the early 1840s. Lots of different stories are interwoven (and done so very well). Incredibly well done, from script to casting to costumes… although while I really liked it, I can’t imagine I would want to watch it again (but that’s just a personal taste thing). I particularly liked the range of women’s costuming, with the older great lady in late 18th century costume (altho how old would she have had to be to be dressing 18th century? wouldn’t she have been more appropriate in Regency styles?), the older town ladies in very 1820s-30s styles, and the younger ladies in current 1840-41 fashions.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Annie Symons

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I tried to read the book and found it ponderous, wordy, and just plain unexciting (I mean, how many descriptions of a prostitute with eczema can one read?), so it’s saying something to say that this was really quite fabulous! Romola Garai plays Sugar, a prostitute with a little something special — but weird special!  She falls in with a well-off businessman (played by Chris O’Dowd, which if you’re a fan of the British comedy “The IT Crowd,” you will be just as freaked out by as me — he’s quite good in both parts, but MAN are they different!) who has a wife with some serious issues (unhelped by him and a REALLY freaky doctor). Okay, point is they hook up, shack up, and then complications arise when Sugar gets to know the wife and their child… Really great Dickensian settings, great but appropriately dark bustle-era costuming, and some faaabulous makeup design (particularly on Gillian Anderson as the aging madam). The ending was kind of strange to me, but I’m assuming it’s true to the novel.

My rating: 5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Mike O’Neill

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We love the BBC!  An adaptation of George Eliot’s novel, this is a dark story about selfishness (and unselfishness), domesticabuse, Judaism, and REALLY GOOD BUSTLE DRESSES.  Set in the early 1870s, Romola Garai as Gwendolen Harleth has SUCH GOOD CLOTHES IT’S OUTSTANDING.  Jodhi May is wonderful as Mira, and Hugh Dancy is cute and earnest and sweet.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: James Keast

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A BBC miniseries about Pre-Raphaelite painters Dante Gabriel Rosetti, William Holman Hunt, John Millais, and Elizabeth Siddal.  It was surprisingly lighthearted for artists who were such downers; there’s a real mix between tragic romanticism and bawdy romps through mid-Victorian London. It felt very “light” — as in, not a serious Film. Overall the costuming was nicely done, with the leads wearing appropriately “exotic” costumes, although I question whether Elizabeth Siddal spent her entire life with her hair down, and whether prostitute-trying-to-be-respectable Annie Miller would have cleavage down to there when she’s trying to be taken for middle class.

My rating: 3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Judy Moorcroft

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An early Merchant-Ivory period film.  The plot is somewhat tedious and the production looks a bit dated now, but I liked the 1840s costuming.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Joanna Johnston

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Totally shlocky romance, telling the story of Tom Cruise as a poor Irish farmer (ha ha) who runs away with Nicole Kidman’s upper class Irish character to New York, where drama and romance ensues.  Pretty cheesy, but it can work if you can handle a high cheese factor.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Susannah Buxton

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Another adaptation of a Sarah Waters novel (see my review of Tipping the Velvet), this miniseries really captures the novel quite well. Sally Hawkins does a great job portraying Sue, who has grown up with thieves in London and takes a position as lady’s maid to Maud Lilly in a scheme to steal Maud’s inheritance. But things get more complicated… Nice 1860s costumes, including both upper and lower class.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Andrea Galer

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It’s been a while since I’ve seen this, but what I basically remember is that it was pretty lackluster.  Sophie Marceau plays a French woman who agrees to have a child with an English gentleman, who takes the child home to England.  Later she endeavors to become the child’s governess in order to be close to the child.  The early scenes are set in the late 1830s, later scenes in the 1840s.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Phoebe De Gaye

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This wasn’t my favorite, by any stretch of the imagination, British TV costume miniseries, but it’s still worth a watch.  A very complicated tale telling the interweaving stories of various members of the Forsyte family.  I think my big stumbling block was Gina McKee as Irene — she just doesn’t work for me.  Lots of people are excited about the bustle gowns, but I don’t think they’re that remarkable.  Worth a watch but don’t expect greatness.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Tom Rand

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Meryl Streep, Jeremy Irons — what more can you say?  Based on the novel, this tells the story of an outcast woman in mid-19th century England the man who befriends her, as well as the modern actors playing these characters in a film.  It makes more sense when you see it.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Kym Barrett

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Okay, this is one of these movies where you want to sit down with the casting director and say, “Honey, did you honestly ever think that HEATHER GRAHAM would work in a period film?  Really?  What have you been smoking, then?”  She’s so jarringly bad in her “I’m a California girl who goes to the mall, but I’m playing a Victorian prostitute!”  See it instead for Johnny Depp, a small part by Sophia Myles, and a semi-interesting look at lower class later Victorian clothing.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sandy Powell

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This movie just SO didn’t work for me.  Overall, I didn’t get the Big Point Scorcese was trying to make, Daniel Day Lewis was too over-the-top for me, and the costuming (while interesting) was very much theatrical.  The only bit I really liked was when Cameron Diaz’s lower class character dresses up respectablyin order to rob upper class homes, as she actually wears a pretty accurate outfit.  Otherwise it’s long, there’s a lot of meat cleavers in people’s heads, etc. etc.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Walter Plunkett

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The classic.  See one of the best love stories ever, plus see where many costuming myths got their start.  Keep your eye on Olivia de Havilland not only for a great performance, but for more accurate hair and costumes than the rest of the cast.  I still say Ashley is annoying.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Caroline Harris

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I had such HOPES for this film (I love Minnie Driver), but they just didn’t pan out!  Driver plays a Jewish girl in mid-19th century England who conceals her identity in order to become a governess to a middle class family in the country, and develops interesting relationships with the son and father.  The costumes are interesting, but totally inaccurate — lots of weird fetish-y leather (on a GOVERNESS?) etc.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Odile Dicks-Mireaux

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Certainly way better than the modernized version!  Set in the 1860s, keep your eye on Justine Waddell for fabulous clothes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Andrea Galer

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I had been eagerly awaiting this miniseries, as it is another adaptation by the talented writer Andrew Davies (1995 Pride & Prejudice) of an Anthony Trollope (The Way We Live Now) novel.  But I have to say, I was really disappointed.  First:  the costumes are very nice mid-1860s, although it seems to have been perpetual summer as everyone wanders around in very sheer cotton dresses; down side? I am SO bored by the 1860s I couldn’t even begin to describe. The lead actresses are quite good; down side? The lead actor (who plays Louis) may have done a good job or not — who knows, I hated his character so much I was rooting for him to die (in a literary sense!) so we could Move The *$!K On.  You could tell that this story is MUCH longer and more complicated than they had time for; as it is, it all felt very rushed and skipped around a lot.  Oh, the plot?  Right.  Louis marries Emily, all is well, until her godfather (a known rake) starts visiting.  A lot.  Louis worries about what people will think and then later, whether Emily has done anything wrong.  He’s obstinate, she’s obstinate, they separate, he goes insane and goes from vaguely unattractive to REALLY unattractive.  There’s two nice subplots (Emily’s sister falls in love with someone her parents don’t think is rich enough for her, and an only tangentially connected story about a poor relation who also falls in love), altho they aren’t extensive enough to outweigh the main plot.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Franca Squarciapino

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[Released as Le Hussard sur le Toit in France] Set in the 1830s with Juliette Binoche and Olivier Martinez.  Cholera, missing husbands, lots of running around the countryside.  Worth a watch, but nowhere near fabulous.  In French.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Caroline Harris

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This is my favorite of the recent Oscar Wilde adapations.  It has a fabulous cast:  Rupert Everett, Cate Blanchett, Minnie Driver, Jeremy Northam, and Julianne Moore; it’s pretty witty and has lots of interesting plot machinations; and the costumes (set in the 1890s), while not strictly accurate (especially on Driver), are pretty.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Mary Malin

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Based on one of Louisa May Alcott’s younger writings, this is a made-for-television adaptation of a melodramatic novel.  Set in the 1870s, Edith was rescued by a well-to-do family and raised as companion to their daughter.  The story tells of her learning about her background and falling in love.  Some very over-the-top characterizations, especially with the “evil” cousin who tries to thwart Edith.  Some acceptable bustle gowns, but nothing to get excited about.  A fine cable watch, but I wouldn’t spend any money on it.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sandy Powell

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Another so/so movie.  Tom Cruise is WAY out of his league as the vampire Lestat, Brad Pitt works but only barely — see it instead for Kirsten Dunst in her most amazing role ever as Claudia, the child vampire.  The story begins in the 1790s, then moves to the 1870s or 1880s and then the present day.  Claudia’s gowns in the 19th century period are amazing, as are her “friend” Madeleine’s (I would happily kill for Madeleine’s green dress).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan

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It’s been a very long time since I’ve seen this movie about the relationship between pianist Frederic Chopin (Hugh Grant) and George Sand (Judy Davis).  Set in the 1830s, what I really remember is Emma Thompson as a ditzy woman who both main characters visit — Thompson’s character really works well with the froofy ’30s styles.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Andrea Galer & John Bright

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Yet another BBC adaptation of the classic novel, with Ruth Wilson as Jane and Toby Stephens as Mr. Rochester.  There were many things I liked about this production — it was appropriately spooky, Wilson really inhabited the character of Jane, it’s longer than my current favorite (the Samantha Morton version), and the costuming was very well done (although they mixed the eras — Jane was wearinglater period styles than Blanche & co.).  However, Stephens got on my nerves a bit, and there was something off in the chemistry between him and Wilson — when she had her big emotional scene (when she thought he was going to marry Blanche), I just kept thinking, “I don’t believe she would act this way in front of her employer!”  So the Morton version is still my favorite — but this is very well done, so I recommend it.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Michael O’Connor

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When this was announced, I thought, “Oh god, do we really need yet ANOTHER Jane Eyre?” But I was surprised to find I really really liked this one — much better than the 2006 version! The BBC mini-series is still my favorite, but this was well done, and the acting and chemistry between the leads was far better than the 2006 version. It’s bookended slightly differently, but whatever, it’s still the same story. Nice costumes – your standard poor-governess-1840s gear.

My rating: 5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Janty Yates

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Get ready to weep — Christopher Eccleston is Jude and Kate Winslet is Sue Bridehead in this tale of what happens when two cousins fall in love… Set in probably the 1880s or 1890s, Winslet wears some fabulous lower class cotton print dresses.  Visually beautiful.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Irene Sharaff

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It’s the classic!  I never fail to cry during the big climax.  See where many Victorian costuming myths come from, plus some impossibly huge hoopskirts, romantic polkas, and great songs.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Gabriella Pescucci

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Pretty bad — see the stage play/musical instead.  Set in the 1810s and 1830s, possibly worth a watch if you’re REALLY into the period and want to see Claire Danes (as Cosette) in some not-terribly-exciting ’30s gowns.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Barbara Kidd

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This BBC miniseries is WAY better than the recent feature film.  Another dark Dickens tale with some great comic relief, plus the always mesmerizing Sophia Myles as Kate Nickleby, wearing plain but gorgeous 1830s gowns.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Colleen Atwood

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For me, the be all and end all of mid-Victorian films.  I love Marmee/Susan Sarandon’s sensible 1860s gowns, Meg’s gowns when she gets dressed up by her society friends (that ballgown!), and Samantha Mathis’s early 1870s dresses as the adult Amy.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jill Taylor

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Not fabulous but not terrible either — Emily Watson as Maggie Tulliver, torn between the men she loves and her family. Interesting for some middle class 1840s gowns.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sandy Powell

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Okay, if you aren’t ready to kill for the title character’s (played by Saffron Burrows) striped bustle dress, then you’re just not my friend.  A dark, dramatic, and a bit twisted examination of the relationship between mistress and servant — Burrows only wears two gowns, but trust me — they’re worth it!

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Nic Ede

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A slight entertainment; nothing offensive, nothing great. Emma Thompson stars as the title character, a magical nanny who arrives to deal with Colin Firth’s obnoxious children.  She teaches them various lessons while dad attempts to save his family by becoming engaged to the most horridly fabulous woman imaginable (Celia Imrie, shining as Mrs. Quickly).  Kelly McDonald is very sweet as the family’s maid and Angela Landsbury is great as domineering Aunt Adelaide.  The costuming is very silly and period-esque — they were trying for 1880s-ish, but definitely having fun with it (see Mrs. Quickly’s outstanding wardrobe). Worth a watch on cable, but I really wouldn’t spend too much money on it (again, not bad, but not terribly special either).

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Ruth Myers

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Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.  See the BBC miniseries instead. Weird pseudo-Victorian costuming, especially on Anne Hathaway as Nickelby’s love interest.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Mike O’Neill

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Wow! This was so so good. Based on an Elizabeth Gaskell novel, it’s about Margaret Hale who moves with her minister father and mother from an idyllic country home in southern England to the northern England mill town of Milton (based on Manchester). She becomes involved with the plight of the mill workers, but also with one of the local mill owner families — and things get heated with HOT HOT HOT (HELLOOOOOO this guy should play Mr. Darcy!) John Thornton.  Set in the 1860s, with really lovely, accurate costumes (and that’s saying something, coming from Miss I’m-Bored-of-the-1860s!).  See it!  Buy it!

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Anna B. Sheppard

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Roman Polanski’s feature version of the Dickens story wasdefinitely entertaining, although Polanski dropped some of themore far-fetched plotlines (and some characters) in order (Ithink) to make it grittier.  FABULOUS average-person 1840swear in all the street scenes — keep your eyes on the extras.Nancy and Bet wear nice lower class/prostitute wear, although Ithought Nancy’s puffy-sleeved red taffeta dress a bit far-fetched.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Amy Roberts

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BBC miniseries of the classic Dickens tale, with Timothy Spall as Fagin. Great production: fun to watch, interesting casting (especially Sophie Okenedo as Nancy), and they incorporated some characters/elements from the books that are often dropped. However, they also dropped other characters/elements from the books, and rewrote some important plot details related to Monks and Rose. Fagin’s Jewishness and discussions/plot points related to that are very highlighted. The costuming was fabulous, with very nice late 1830s (the book was published in 1838!), and I really liked the scum costumes.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: John Bright & Chloe Obolensky

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One of those Really Terrible movies that’s just gorgeously costumed.Unrequited romance, Ralph Fiennes, Liv Tyler, Russia, 1830s.Watch it with the mute button on.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Donna Zakowska

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Okay, confession time:  I really love this movie! Yeah, it’s cheesy, it’s overly melodramatic, it tries WAY too hard to be eroTIQUE — but Angelina Jolie’s costumes (set in probably the late 1870s) are gorgeously sexy (if definitely Hollywood-ized), and for some reason I always get choked up at the big climax (no pun intended).

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sandy Powell & Dien van Straalen

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A beautiful film that suffers a bit from a story that doesn’t translate terribly well to film.  The story spans four centuries, from the Elizabethan era to the present day.  The costumes are absolutely breathtaking — I would happily kill for the title character’s white sack-back gown with huuuuuge paniers.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Janet Patterson

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A sad, quirky tale of love between two misfits set in Australiain probably the 1870s or 1880s (it’s been a while since I’ve seen it).  Keep your eye on Cate Blanchett as Lucinda not only for a great performance, but for interesting dress reform outfits.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Mike O’Neill

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Lent to me by a friend who wasn’t able to get all the way through it, and neither could I.  If anyone’s managed to watch this to the end and thinks there’s something worth seeing, please let me know!  Too bad, because I love Keeley Hawes.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Janet Patterson

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Beautiful, sad, inspiring, romantic, terrifying — you name it.It’s a fabulous movie.  Holly Hunter is not only mesmerizing,but she wears some beautiful (if plain — appropriately so) 1850sdresses over perfectly shaped cage crinolines.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Janet Patterson

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Not quite the movie that it should have been, but still greatand definitely worth watching.  A tragic tale about independence,abuse, and love written by Henry James and directed by Jane Campion(The Piano).  Nicole Kidman gives one of her bestperformances as Isabel Archer, and wears some really really fabulous1870s mid-period bustle and natural form gowns.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan

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I’m not a huge fan of A.S. Byatt (don’t hit me), and I only mildlyliked the book, so don’t be surprised that I only mildly likedthe film.  As in the book, I thought the modern day romancebetween Maud (Gwyneth Paltrow) and Roland (Aaron Eckhart) wasfar more interesting than the Victorian romance between Christabel LaMotte (Jennifer Ehle) and Ash (Jeremy Northam).  Nice 1860scostumes, but nothing to make me jump up and down.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Adrian & Gile Steele

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I always resisted seeing this version because of the misguidedcostuming (although the novel is set during the Regency era, thecostumes are 1830s). However, I finally buckled down and watchedand I have to say I quite enjoyed it, mostly for Greer Garson’stake on Elizabeth Bennet. It is definitely of its period, however– costume wise, it’s 1830s on acid (totally overblown hair, dresses,trim, etc.); and Darcy is made much more palatable, and his romancewith Elizabeth is made much more mushy. Nevertheless, worth awatch.

My rating: 3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Marit Allen

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Set during the American Civil War and about Southern troops fighting in Mississippi.  This movie is definitelya mixed bag, but I really liked Jewel’s performance as Sue Lee Shelley, a Southern woman who loves and loses and loves again.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: James Keast

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Semi-entertaining but nothing to write home about. Billie Piper stars as Sally Lockhart, girl detective, in this bustle era BBC production. Eh. Didn’t excite me, didn’t offend me. The costuming was fine but nothing to write home about.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Charlotte Holdich

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A fictionalized account of the life of Mrs. Beeton, who was something of the Martha Stewart of her generation (she published a guide to cooking and household management that was hugely popular). A little sweet and a little sad; not hugely memorable but not offensive. The costuming (1850s) was nice but nothing made me gasp.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: James Keast

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The sequel to The Ruby in the Smoke (see my review), it tells of a further adventure of Sally Lockhart. I don’t know why I liked this one better than Ruby, but I did – altho not enough to give it a four. Both of these have a very modern sensibility about them, which in some ways is interesting (casting) and in some ways jarring (plot points/dialogue). I liked the costuming (early bustle) slightly better in this one, altho Sally doesn’t have that many changes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jenny Beavan

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A VERY boy-riffic look at the famous detective — it’s Sherlock Holmes, action hero!  Meh.  It was fine, but very meh.  Not my cup of tea, I guess!  I was surprised, given the fabulous Jenny Beavan designed the costumes, to see such weird costume choices on the women — especially the BANGS! Oh, the bangs.

My rating: 2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sammy Sheldon

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I really enjoyed this adaptation of a Neil Gaiman comic, as the young hero leaves his classic English rural town sometime in the 1870s-80s to enter a fantasy world alongside his own. The bustle era “real world” costumes are quite nice, except for lots of hair wore down; the fantasy costumes are very well done.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Jacqueline Guyot

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Yet another tragic Isabelle Adjani performance, this time as Adele Hugo, the daughter of poet Victor Hugo.  She leaves her home in France to follow her wayward soldier love to Nova Scotia.  Set in 1863, Adele/Adjani has some pretty gowns. In French.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Colleen Atwood

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I’ve never seen the musical on which this film was based, so have no emotional attachment that it seems so many have… I found the plot underwhelming and the music too “musical” (in the Broadway sense). However, I thought the visuals were stunning, both costume design and set decoration. A mixed bag for me!

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Gyorgyi Szakacs

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An interesting film that doesn’t quite achieve all its aims, but is still worth watching nonetheless.  Spans three generationsof a Hungarian Jewish family.  Early scenes are set in the1890s and feature Jennifer Ehle in some great gowns (loved herwedding dress!).  Also keep your eye on Rachel Weisz in the1920s scenes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer:  Yvonne Sassinot de Nesle

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[Released as Un Amour de Swann in France] An adaptationof a Proust novel, with Jeremy Irons as Monsieur Swann who isobsessively in love with a courtesan in 1870s Paris (with a codan the 1890s). Not too ponderous, although you do want to throwa shoe at both the main characters. REALLY REALLY nice 1870s bustle gowns! Hello! In French.

My rating: 3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Rosalind Ebbutt

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Yet another great British miniseries, this time an adaptationof Anne Bronte’s novel about domestic abuse and love.  TaraFitzgerald plays the lead character, and wears some really pretty1840s gowns, plus some flashbacks to 1830s.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Les Lansdown

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Such a general downer that I always have a hard time gettingactively excited about it, but still yet another great Britishminiseries.  Justine Waddell is, as always, fabulous as thetitle character, a poor small-town farmer’s daughter who goesoff to seek her way in the world and — as we know — suffersfor it.  Interesting 1870s or 1880s lower class clothing.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Susannah Buxton

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I LOVE this BBC miniseries because:  A) it’s an adaptationof a fabulous book by Sarah Waters; B) it’s got Keeley Hawes;C) the costumes are outstanding; D) it’s funny, romantic, sad,and sexy all at the same time.  I don’t want to give anything away, but let’s just say it’s set in the 1890s (although costumedin the 1880s) and tells the tale of Nan Astley’s (Rachael Stirling)adventures in vaudeville and love.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sheena Napier

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Jodhi May stars in this adaptation of the Henry James ghoststory, as a governess sent to care for two children undermysterious circumstances.  At first all is well, but when shestarts to see ghosts things get a bit more complicated.  It’sall very Victorian, and (for those like me who hadn’t read thebook) you really have to take it on a Victorian level tounderstand what happens and the big climax.  Colin Firth hasan itty bitty part at the beginning as May’s charming employer.The costumes, while not terribly varied (because of the maincharacters’ class) are a beautiful look at middling class 1840swear.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: John Bright

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Not fabulous but good.  An adaptation of Shakespeare’s comedystarring Helena Bonham Carter, with a tale of mixed identitiesand romance.  If you’ve ever wanted to see the Victorianidea of medieval costuming, you don’t need to look any fartherthan this.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Lindy Hemming

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The “story” behind Gilbert and Sullivan’s Mikado.Funny, witty, with some good bustle gowns and beautiful Japanesquecostumes.  Not my favorite Mike Leigh film nor my favoritecostume film, but good.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Joan Wadge

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Keeley Hawes stars in this adaptation of a (happy!) Hardy novelthat attempts to be another Wives & Daughters, but falls quiteshort.  It just feels relatively flat, although it’s hard toput my finger on why.  Eh.  Her love interest is quitefetching, but I have to admit I agreed with her father that hewasn’t the right choice.  The costumes were quite pretty –very simple country 1840s styles, with a range from the poorersorts with a few glimpses of upper classes.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Maria Price

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Positives:  BBC miniseries, beautiful 1840s costuming. Negatives:  tries to cover way too much time and both maincharacters aren’t translated well.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Anna B. Sheppard

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Such a downer of a story that it’s hard to enjoy, butI will say this is a well made, well acted film.  JenniferJason Leigh usually really irritates me, and she doesn’t in thisfilm, so that’s saying something — plus Maggie Smith is great.One of the best parts is that Leigh’s character is very awkward,which shows in her dress — interesting to see the unattractiveside of mid-Victorian costuming.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Andrea Galer

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This is a great BBC miniseries written by Andrew Davies (Pride and Prejudice) based on Anthony Trollope’s satirical novel. Because many of the characters are negative (satirical, remember?) it’s hard to LOVE them, but this is still a great story with great acting and — more importantly — BEAUTIFUL early 1870s costuming. I love the dresses worn by supporting character Georgianna Longestaffe (Anne-Marie Duff).

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Les Lansdown

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An adapation of the novel written to be a prequel to Jane Eyre and which tries to tell the story from Bertha/Antoinette’s point ofview.  This one is better than the 1993 feature in that itdoesn’t try overwhelmingly to be an erotic drama, and handles theethnic tensions better.  However, it’s still a hard story toadapt to film period, being so psychologically based, and it just doesn’t translate well.  The lead actress drove me crazy with her gawkiness, and the fit of her dresses was ATROCIOUS — bodices that rode up weirdly in her armpits and that had a giant flat bone up the front.  I literally couldn’t take my eyes off of them!

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Christian Gasc

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[Released as La Veuve de Saint-Pierre in France] Juliette Binoche plays the wife of a French army captain in 1849 French Canada who befriends a convict.  Well acted and with nice late 1840s costumes.  In French.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Deirdre Clancy

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Up there with Pride and Prejudice as one of the best BBC miniseries of all time.  Based on the book by Elizabeth Gaskell, with Justine Waddell as Molly and Keeley Hawes as Cynthia.  Wonderful romantic storyline with DROP DEAD GORGEOUS early 1830s costumes.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Sandy Powell

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A well made biopic that does its best to spice up Queen Victoria’s story, and succeeds as much as is possible. Emily Blunt does a great job with the title role, Rupert Friend manages to make Albert as attractive and interesting as he can (which is not overly, but that’s Albert for ya). Bits and pieces of the story are embellished to make for a more interesting story, but as someone who (obviously) doesn’t find Victoria terribly thrilling, that was fine with me.  It’s a generally well made, standard mass audience biopic.  Sandy Powell’s costumes are well made and really pretty, and I think will convince previous haters of the 1830s that there is much that can be attractive!

My rating: 3 (out of 5)

Costume designer: Charlotte Holdich

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This adaptation of a novel written by a 9 year old girl in 1890s England is cute and silly.  Alfred Salteena (Jim Broadbent) tries to get the attention of Ethel Monticue by impressing her with all of the lords and ladies he knows (of which he really knows none).  When he lucks out with an invitation to visit Lord Clark (Hugh Laurie), he unwittingly introduces a rival.  Although I haven’t read the book (it’s now on my list!), you can tell they had fun bringing in some of the author’s more silly bits.  The over the top 1890s costuming works really well (altho it looks more 1895 than 1898, we won’t nitpick) and is really quite accurate.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)