adjective:old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French, the past participle of démoder "to go out of fashion," from mode "fashion"].
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, c. 1560-1620. New York: Drama Book, 1985.
Landini, Roberta Orsi. Moda a Firenze, 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la Sua Influenza. Firenze: Pagliali Polistampa, 2005.
Mikhaila, Ninya and Jane Malcolm-Davies. The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th Century Dress. Hollywood, Calif.: Costume and Fashion Press, 2006.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Attending the SCA West Kingdom's 12th Night last weekend finally gave me the excuse (and deadline) to finish the last two elements of this costume that I wanted to make: a new partlet and girdle. I can now say this sucker is officially Done!
For the girdle, I searched high and low for gold beads that were large enough to match the scale of the Goltzius engraving. Shockingly, beads that large are expensive, especially when you need a lot of them! So I was thrilled to find a big bag of large gold beads in an antique store for only a few dollars. In order to liven up the girdle, I made bead wraps using two pearls on either side of a square gold bead on gold wire.
Later in the day, I did a bit of shopping and found some (fake) Big Honkin' Pearl Drops, which I added to my earrings and center girdle jewel - yay! You can see them in this pic of me, Sarah, and Janos at the ball, courtesy of Trystan.
posted by démodé 11:17 AM 0 comments
Monday, October 20, 2008
We have achieved finished dress! Even more exciting, I FINALLY have a new Venetian gown after wearing the same one for FOUR YEARS. Yay!!!
There are a few more pictures up on the Bella Donna site.
posted by démodé 10:29 PM 13 comments
Thursday, October 16, 2008
After my life getting sucked by various work crises, and typically overscheduling myself, I got back to work on this as Folsom Faire (the last faire of the season) approached. I am going to have a new dress!!!
As I last posted, I thought I had a pretty good sleeve pattern. I cut it out, fray checked it all (as this fabric is super fray-y), then worked on the slashes in the puff. First I did a teeny tiny zigzag stitch all along the edges, then I hand sewed a really narrow velvet ribbon to the edges.
Then I put the sleeve together, starting with the white underpuff, which I sewed to the sleeve lining:
I thought I was doing fabulously working on the sleeves, and was all optimistic that I'd have them done in a few hours -- only to CONTINUALLY sew wrong sides to right sides and get it all screwed up. I finally figured out that I had sewn the white puff to the wrong side of the sleeve lining, so every time I sewed the sleeve cap together and then turned the sleeve, the white puff was against my arm instead of showing through the slashed outer sleeve. I spent HOURS unpicking, resewing, etc. etc. and finally got it all put together...
Then I sewed on the jewels. I bought some topaz stones in settings from MJ trim. Looking at the engraving, the jewels are in a diamond pattern, so I used pearls to fill out the arrangement. The jewels were great, as I could use that to tack the sleeve to the lining, making sure that you can't see the raw edge of the white underpuff. I had originally planned to copy the engraving with jewels at the top of the slash, but I couldn't see where I could sew them unless I sewed the slash together for about 1" at the sleeve head, which I didn't want to do. And I didn't want to just sew a topaz without the pearls, as I thought that would look dorky. I also put more of the gold Venetian lace as cuff.
The final thing was sewing on all of the fiddly bits. Because I'm wearing this out to faire, I need it to be really functional, so I really wanted to avoid having to sew/pin anything together. I put hooks & bars on the waistband, hooks & bars connecting the bodice to skirt, hook & eye for the bodice's center point bottom closure (I've found that works better than trying to lace the point), and rings on the sleeves and armholes; I also put snaps on my partlet, as I finally got around to putting the gold lace into an actual partlet shape using white cotton muslin to build out the shape, but I found the first time I wore it, the low shoulder straps on the bodice meant that the partlet kept pulling out. I fixed it with safety pins, but snaps were a much more functional approach.
So I took two tiny, 5" pleats at each of the side fronts, right where the cartridge pleating ends -- as I wanted to take the tucks somewhere where the skirt wouldn't show the tucks, and where it wouldn't screw up the hook & bar bodice/skirt placement. I'm hoping that fixes it!
posted by démodé 12:18 PM 2 comments
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Wow, I finally have a moment to update! I have worked on this in bits and pieces over the last however many weeks, but have been SO INCREDIBLY BUSY in my job (typical fall busy-ness) and personal life that I really haven't had a moment to spare to update. But I have plugged along - I'm determined to get this done by Folsom Faire in mid-October!
In between, I have been working on what I am calling the "grump-inducing sleeves." If you look at the engraving, you'll see that it's a slashed puff at the top, but it doesn't have a seam below the puff the way some of the sleeves do -- so it's all in one. I had to FUTZ and futz and FUTZ and finally have arrived at something that I think will be nice, thanks to the good work of Lisa V., Diana, and Cynthia. It took about 4 mockups to get here, though! You can see the different iterations here, with obviously the last pair (the only ones to look decent!) are the final version:
And finally, I finally managed to upload photos of the gold net I found at Lacis (shockingly cheap, too!), that I'm hoping could be made into a partlet - I'm thinking of pearling the joins (not every one - something spaced).
Oh, and I'm thinking about how to trim this and wondering about using stones-in-settings surrounded by pearls -- except Cynthia (also in Bella Donna) used rectangular stones, so I'm wanting to use a different shape. Anyone know whether this shape is at all period? How about ovals, or squares?
posted by démodé 7:06 PM 5 comments
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
There is absolutely NOTHING like the joy of starting a project where you A) have undies long completed and B) a perfectly fitting bodice pattern. It was soooo fabulous to just haul out my pattern from my last gown and start cutting into my purdy fabric, and to have the bodice done in about 2 days!
I also worked on the sleeve pattern, but forgot to upload pics, so more on that tomorrow.
posted by démodé 10:22 AM 5 comments
Friday, May 30, 2008
I've been a bad, bad girl!
However, Bella Donna has been talking for a while about broadening up our color palette, and when we agreed that it would be okay to use non-red/gold colors so long as they incorporated gold, I knew immediately that I wanted a green gown. I'd loved the fabric Bess used for her Venetian gown the minute I saw it, and hey, I'm a redhead! I needs me my green!
...which is gorgeous, but I somehow can't picture it in green. Also, as the costume mistress for Bella Donna, I am trying to get our group to start using specifically Venetian sleeves, but I am worried that everyone will end up with these slashed/puffed sleeves (given that the few other options are more basic).
However, I am again wondering if the sleeves will end up too samey with other Bella Donnas (gotta double check -- although I think the jeweling on the slashes will be different)? I am also liking this lady's sleeves, which would provide some variation with the slashes at the elbow (could I incorporate that into the first lady's sleeve, do you think?):
I've already picked up the lace for the neckline and cuffs:
And I'm going to order some cotton sateen for lining. The last bit I'm thinking about right now is the girdle -- all of the ladies in the engraving wear similar girdles made of what I picture as large gold beads. Does anyone have any sources for such for cheap? I found things I liked at Fire Mountain Gems, but they are hugely expensive, and after the amount I spent on fabric, I don't think I can go spend hundreds on beads...
posted by démodé 3:11 PM 16 comments