Why? Progress = because I have the week off from work (furlough)! Posting = couldn’t find my digital card reader, which meant no photos… and I find photo-less posting to be annoying, because I want to SEE what people are talking about! It’s a thing with me – I hardly ever post without photos.
Okay, so last time we talked, I was busy dyeing velvet. I then made the collar facing, extending it down to where the bodice closure starts (you can see a tiny little line of velvet there in the film gown). There was a little bit of futzing to get the collar points to mirror.
Then I made a sleeve mockup. The sleeve is long, fitted, and pretty basic, with the velvet cuff. I took the sleeve pattern from my 1875 day bodice and took out the elbow-wrist fullness.
In trying on my sleeve mockup, I discovered some weird, around the bust point but also above, fullness. I think this was created when I let out the mockup at the center front — I think things may have pivoted weirdly? I fuzted with it for a while and then realized I was going to need to redo the darts, so I picked those out. I ended up taking in a bit at the top of the side seam, and then repositioning/reshaping the outer bust dart. Annoying, but in the end I’m glad because I like the placement of the darts better, and they look more like the film gown.
Next, I sat on the couch for about 2 days making buttons. I used Hana’s tutorial that she posted in the comments on the last post. I had to make 22 buttons, so it took a LONG time, plus Winston our dog ate one of them (luckily no swallowing!) so I ended up making 23. The buttons are just decorative — squinting at the film gown, I don’t see any sort of loop. My plan is to use hooks & eyes on the inside of the bodice.
I added piping on the bodice edge, CF, and armholes — it’s not there in the film gown, but I like it (yay for bias stripes!) and it creates an easy way to finish edges. I should say that I did tweak one thing in the film gown, going with a period, angled shoulder seam (in the film gown, they have a modern, on top of the shoulder seam — my guess is so that the stripes match up).
I made up the sleeve, but I haven’t attached it yet, as it’s easier to do all the bodice finishing with a bit less fabric in my lap. I had to look at the film images a lot to convince myself that the sleeve cuff really was higher on the front seam than the back, which seems counter-intuitive… but I went with it.
Finally, I’ve been thinking a lot about the white underbodice layer, and finally decided to make a chemisette. I haven’t found any fashion plate images of chemisettes from this era (more 1860s-earlier), but it seems like the most obvious solution, and if I’m thinking historically, early 1870s isn’t THAT different from late 1860s. I looked at patterns for chemisettes in Arnold and Hunnisett, making it reach down to the waist, with the turn-back collar and button front closure. The proportions look slightly off to me — I think in the film gown, the collar opens lower — but if I do that on me, I’ll have cleavage, which doesn’t seem right for 19th c. daywear! Romola Garai does not have the rack that I have. I finished the chemisette last night with lace on the collar and buttons and buttonholes – but no pics yet!
Now, I need to get over to Lacis for boning, attach the sleeves, and add hooks and eyes. Then it’s on to the hat, which I’m super excited about! I bought Lynn McMasters’ Mid-Victorian Bonnet, and I can’t wait to start messing with buckram (altho choosing the trimming may kill me — but that’s another post).