Costume in Cinema: 17th Century
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THE CRUCIBLE (1996)
Costume designer: Bob Crowley Buy from Amazon and support this site Winona Ryder and Daniel Day Lewis can sometimes really irritate me, which makes it an even bigger statement when I say that this is a great movie. A really serious adaptation of the famous play, which makes it of interest to anyone interested in the period or in the witchcraft trials of the early United States. Joan Allen gives a mesmerizing performance as Elizabeth Proctor. The costuming is great, although not at all glitzy — these are lower middling class people in the colonies. My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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CYRANO DE BERGERAC (1990)
Costume designer: Franca Squarciapino Buy from Amazon and support this site This is the classic version of the famous tale starring Gerard Depardieu, and is gorgeously (if not 100% accurately) costumed. In French. My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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GIRL WITH A PEARL EARRING (2003)
Costume designer: Dien van Straalen Buy from Amazon and support this site Fabulous adaptation of a fabulous book. The costuming is just gorgeous, spanning everything from servant’s wear to upper class clothing. Fabulous cartridge pleats on the backs of the sleeve heads. Keep an eye on Mrs. Vermeer for some gorgeous upper class clothing and on Griet for well done servant wear. My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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THE FORTUNES AND MISFORTUNES OF MOLL FLANDERS (1996)
Costume designer: Trisha Biggar Buy from Amazon and support this site Far truer to the original story than the big screen version (below), this is a fun look at the underside of 17th century England. Alex Kingston is great as Moll, and the story is funny, romantic, and sad. The costuming is quite well done, although it spans rather too much time — if you were to match the costumes to the decade, Moll would be very very old at the end of the film! My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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FRENCHMAN’S CREEK (1998)
Costume designer: Evangeline Harrison & Charles Knode Buy from Amazon and support this site Based on the book by Daphne du Maurier, which I obviously never read, because I had NO idea that this movie was set in the 17th century or about pirates. But it is! Tara Fitzgerald is a wealthy aristocrat on the wrong side of British politics, who gets involved with a French privateer. It’s decently well done but nothing thrilling; the costumes are nice but not spectacular. My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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THE LAST KING: THE POWER AND THE PASSION OF CHARLES II (2004)
Costume designer: Mike O’Neill Buy from Amazon and support this site (Released as Charles II: The Power and the Passion in the UK). Very entertaining look at this British monarch, with the yummy Rufus Sewall in the title role. Luckily he was not only married (Shirley Henderson as Catherine of Braganza), but had many mistresses and a sister, all of whom are in splendiferous costumes. Lots of sex and intrigue. My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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THE LIBERTINE (2004)
Costume designer: Dien van Straalen Buy from Amazon and support this site Not fabulous but not bad either. Johnny Depp stars at the famously debauched Earl of Rochester, and the movie tells the story of his decline. Samantha Morton plays actress Elizabeth Barry, who has a connection with the earl. Not a happy movie. This film joins the new costume-movies-are-okay-provided-they-are-grittily-realistic; it works relatively well (low lighting that really approximates candlelight indoors) and not so well (gritty, low lit outdoor shots). The men’s costuming is really great (what you can see of it); the women’s is less exciting (it’s not necessarily bad, just not flashy and we don’t see much of it). My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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MARQUISE (1997)
Costume designer: Olga Berluti Buy from Amazon and support this site This was never released in the US, which you know is a bad sign… Sophie Marceau stars as an aspiring actress in 17th century France. She joins with Moliere’s acting troupe and goes on to become a leading figure on the stage and a favorite of the king. All sounds good, but it’s relatively tedious — I found myself wishing it would all wrap up sooner than it did. The costumes are quite pretty, but not overly exciting. In French. My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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MOLIERE (2007)
Costume designer: Pierre-Jean Larroque Buy from Amazon and support this site Don’t hate me, because I know a lot of you liked this… but I found it dull. There are two years “missing” from the historical record of Moliere’s life, and the film’s idea is that he was recruited to teach a pretentious bourgeoisie to act… and in the process ends up in the plots of many of his later plays. The point is, the actor playing Moliere had BAD WIGS and annoying teeth (strangely, in the behind the scenes interview he was kind of cute), and the women’s costuming didn’t really excite me (it was okay, with a bit too many patterned brocades and some weird choices — like the bourgeoisie’s love interest’s gowns fit less well than the female extras in the same scene). My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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MOLL FLANDERS (1996)
Costume designer: Consolata Boyle Buy from Amazon and support this site The story, which is VERY adapted from the original novel, is tedious and dull. See the British tv miniseries version instead (above). See also my review of the 1996 BBC production. My rating: 1 (out of 5) |
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ORLANDO (1992)
Costume designer: Sandy Powell & Dien van Straalen Buy from Amazon and support this site A beautiful film that suffers a bit from a story that doesn’t translate terribly well to film. The story spans four centuries, from the Elizabethan era to the present day. The costumes are absolutely breathtaking — I would happily kill for the title character’s white sack-back gown with huuuuuge paniers. My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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RESTORATION (1995)
Costume designer: James Acheson Buy from Amazon and support this site A mixed bag, but don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater! The story isn’t all that it should be, and Robert Downey Jr., while a fabulous actor, doesn’t really suit the role. However, Polly Walker is fabulously dressed as the king’s mistress, and I found Meg Ryan’s character really quite touching. Worth a watch, if only for the visuals. My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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STAGE BEAUTY (2004)
Costume designer: Tim Hatley Buy from Amazon and support this site Much better than I thought it would be! Billy Crudup is really quite mesmerizing as the leading actor-who-portrays-women in Restoration England, while Claire Danes is a bit out of her league as the maid/aspiring actress who leads the way for women to play women. Although Danes’s hair is a bit weird, her dresses get really gorgeous and quite period imho once she gains success. My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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TO KILL A KING (2003)
Costume designer: John Bloomfield Buy from Amazon and support this site Pretty darn tootin’ bad. The story never really gets started — we go through what seems to be build up to something MORE, then a big jump in time happens, and we’re supposed to be emotionally invested in the ending which really seems rather abrupt. Tim Roth is at one of his lower points here as Cromwell. The only saving grace is Olivia Williams as Lady Anne Fairfax, torn between her husband and her father — a fabulous actress who is gorgeously dressed. Rupert Everett is quite good as Charles I as well. Rent it to see Williams’ costumes and fast forward through the rest. My rating: 1 (out of 5) |
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VATEL (2000)
Costume designer: Yvonne Sassinot de Nesle Buy from Amazon and support this site Set at the French court in the 1670s, and chronicles various intrigues surrounding the king’s chef (Gerard Depardieu). Pretty tedious stuff, although Uma Thurman looks good as a court lady. My rating: 1 (out of 5) |
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
I can’t believe you described Moliere as dull! My family and I thought it was hilarious, a quainter Shakespeare in love.
And I adore Vatel too. Utter historical escapism for me, especially having visited a number of locations used, it really captures the glamour of it all and sheds an amusing light on politics that are run from the bedroom.
Jez – to each their own! I knew when I posted that review of Moliere that I was going against the grain — so many of my friends loved that film. But I just post my opinions!